One of the biggest phases that a puppy will go through is the fear of being alone. And I'm not talking about being alone in the sense of you leaving the house. Some puppies will go absolutely nuts even when you only leave the room for a split second. They just can't bear to be alone because they are used to having their mommy or litter mates around non-stop.

When faced with this situation, what you do? If you run to your puppy to sooth and caress him every time he cries, then you are only feeding the behavior and creating a spoiled dog. On the other hand, if you ignore him and let him bark his brains out, the rest of the family (especially your spouse) will become very annoyed with you for letting the barking go on.

It's like being stuck between a rock and a hard place, however, we do have some tips to help you deal with your puppy barking situation:

1. The first step is to try to ignore your puppy's barking if at all possible without yelling at him. Yelling will either scare him from wanting to come near you or will further add to his anxiety levels that and  he will continue barking.

2. There is a product called a “teaching lead” which will enable your puppy to be around you at all times in the house.  Use these types of tools so that your puppy can be around you while he is getting used to his independence.

3. When you leave the house, try to refrain from long and drawn out departures. Although it's understandable to want to pet your puppy and talk sweet to her before leaving the house, it only creates more stress because she will start to associate your behavior with you leaving her side. The same advice goes when you arrive home.  Avoid big and exciting welcomes after walking through the door.

4. Try using a simple training aid to get your puppy to quiet down immediately when she is barking. A water bottle that sends a quick burst of streaming spray is a perfect idea. Or you could use a small tin can filled with a few pennies in it. When you go to leave her side and she starts barking, simply throw that can in her area. It will create a startling noise while at the same time diverting her attention.

Teaching your puppy the “leave it” and “drop it”commands can keep your youngster from doing something dangerous, such as eating mouse poison, rotten food and other yucky stuff, or running into the path of a speeding car.

“Leave It”

With your puppy on a leash, walk by a tempting item, such as food or a toy (you can pre-place items for this exercise). When your puppy tries to pick up the item, give a short quick tug on the leash and say, “Leave it.”

Enthusiastically praise your puppy for obeying (“Good Sparky!”). You can offer a treat reward at this time if you prefer, but praise and a pat on the head work just as well. Repeat this routine at home.

Here's another method you can use to teach your puppy the leave it command: Hold a food treat in your closed fist. When your puppy noses your hand, say “Leave it,” and keep your fist closed. When your pup stops nosing your hand, reward with praise, then give a verbal release command (such as “okay”) and let your puppy have the treat. Continue working like this until your puppy will sit quietly without touching a nearby treat until you give the release command.

“Drop It”

When your puppy picks up a forbidden object, say, “Drop it!” and walk over to your puppy. If your pup won't release the item, offer it a tempting treat as a trade for the item. When your puppy drops it, offer praise and a safe substitute – preferably one that's more enticing than the forbidden item.

If your puppy runs away from you, don't chase it – it'll think you're playing a game. Instead, ignore your little one and get yourself a treat from the kitchen (something you know your puppy likes). Take the treat to a puppy-accessible area and start to eat it (or pretend to eat it, if it's a dog goodie).

Be dramatic about how yummy it is. Call your puppy over, then give the drop it command and trade the treat for the forbidden item. (Be sure to praise your youngster for obeying.) After your puppy finishes the treat, offer an acceptable toy.

1. Signs of slowing down: your normally perky dog that likes to run amok the moment you open your backyard door will now trot slowly.  When taking for a brisk walk, he will often lag behind and seem somewhat reluctant to pick up the pace.  Instead of bounding up when getting up when you call him, he will slowly and gingerly get up to come near you.

2. Another sign is showing signs of graying hair: your dog will start to grow gray hairs around the muzzle and face particularly below the chin and around the eye brows.  On some dogs, graying hair will also appear around the feet and tail.

3. Difficulty of hearing: some dogs experience neurological changes and suffer hearing loss.  Initially it will come out as if your dog is being stubborn and refuses to follow your command.  If you will observe your dog closely, he will respond more to low pitched sounds compared to high pitched tones.  Other signs of deafness will be your dog getting startled when you make a sound from behind him as he did not hear your approach.

4. Cloudy eyes: a young dog’s eyes are normally clear and bright.  As your dog ages, his eyes will start to dull and become cloudy and bluish in appearance.  You will see your dog’s eyes forming a white ring around the cornea.  These are deposits caused by aging but will not affect your dog’s vision.  What will affect your dog’s eye sight will be the formation of cataract in the crystalline lens inside the eye.  You will know your dog has cataract if he would bump into furniture and people yet does not show signs of dizziness and lack of balance. 

5. Muscle atrophy: your dog may appear to have sagging muscles.  This is due to muscle atrophy that is related to aging.  This will result to weakness of your dog making regular exercises seem more difficult.  Your dog will now have difficulty climbing up the stairs or pull on a favorite cart.

6. “Accidents” due to incontinence: this is also related to muscular atrophy. The muscles that control your dog’s bowel and bladder will now weaken and your dog will eventually lose control of his elimination habits.  “Accidents” can happen while your dog is inside the crate, inside at home and even while you he’s sleeping.

It is important that you give appropriate support measures when you see these signs of ageing in your dog.  You will need to have regular visits with your vet to monitor your dog’s condition for there are many age-related disorders that your dog can experience.  These can range from canine cognitive dysfunction, arthritis, and heart disease.  Ask your vet for appropriate dog supplements to help your dog stay healthy through the ageing process.

Cause of Pyoderma

Pyoderma is caused by Staphylococcus intermedius that inoculates itself through the break of the skin in dogs.  The bacteria will then colonize themselves and cause an infection as well as inflammatory condition that can result to numerous signs and symptoms that can produce discomfort.  There are a number of conditions that can cause the break in your dog’s skin and can become risk factors for bacterial infections.  These conditions are:

• Scabies
• Allergy
• Atopic dermatitis
• Flea bites
• Poor grooming
• Use of immunosuppressant drugs (e.g. glucocorticoids)
• Presence of autoimmune disorders
• Trauma
• Bites that are either self-inflicted or from other animals
• Poor diet

Signs and Symptoms of Pyoderma

Once the bacteria triggers an inflammatory reaction after infecting your dog, these signs and symptoms manifest themselves and may indicate prompt medical attention.

• Rash that is commonly starts at the trunk, eventually spreading to the entire body
• Itchiness
• Formation of pustules or pimples filled with puss
• Red, and at times, warm skin.
• Alopecia or patches of hair loss, often circumscribed and red
• Greasy coat due to stimulation of oil glands

Treatment of Pyoderma

If pyoderma is secondary to an underlying condition, it is advised to address that condition before you treat pyoderma.  Often times, the signs and symptoms of pyoderma will resolve themselves when the underlying cause is treated.  Treating pyoderma without addressing the main cause will only make your efforts useless.

If your dog is taking glucocorticoids or corticosteroids, wait until the end of the therapy before you apply treatment.  If you suspect that your dog is allergic to something, find out what is causing that allergy and do your best to remove the allergen in your dog’s diet.  Do remember that allergens are not limited to food.  Your dog’s shampoo, flea powder, or even supplements can cause the allergy.

However, if your dog’s condition is so severe, your vet may advice you treat the pyoderma along with the underlying condition.   As you are curing the cause, you may want to place special attention to your dog’s hygiene and grooming.

It is important that you bathe our dog every 2 to 7 days to help wash out the scabs that can be additional sources of nutrients for the bacteria.  Use an antibacterial shampoo containing chlorhexidine, benzoyl peroxide, or ethyllactate to wipe out the colony of bacteria.

Your vet may also prescribe a systemic antibiotic to be given orally to your dog for 3-4 weeks plus an additional 1 week after the clinical manifestations are gone.  If you notice your dog experiencing pyoderma a week after stopping the therapy, it indicates that the antibiotic therapy was inadequate and must be restarted a bit aggressively compared to the previous treatment.

There are instances during antibiotic therapy that symptoms do not improve.  This means that the bacteria are resistant to the current antibiotic therapy.  Culture and sensitivity tests may be done to target the exact medication that can eradicate the bacteria and therapy needs to be restarted.

Your dog will improve as long as the underlying cause is eliminated and the appropriate therapy is given.  Make sure to keep up with your dog’s scheduled check up to see if the therapy is effective or needs to be modified.

First, prepare your dog’s bed.  Make sure that the bed is soft enough to give your dog comfort, but firm enough to support your dog during the healing process.  Provide warmth for some dogs can experience a chill as a post-anesthesia effect.  If the weather is too warm, place the sleeping area in the coolest place of the house.

For the first 24-72 hours your dog will be somewhat unstable. Do not expect to have your dog running around like the usual.  Here are the following behaviors from your dog post-surgery and what you can do to help him cope with them.

• Anorexia or lack of appetite and that includes water.  However if it continues for more than 24 hours, you need to call your vet so he will tell you what to do.
  • Solution: your dog should not be given anything by mouth for a duration that your vet would order.  Usually, it may last for 24-72 hours
• Another thing to expect post-surgery is nausea and vomiting.
  • Solution: your vet would recommend not feeding your dog anything for 24 hours after going home. Afterwards, feed your dog small and frequently until your dog recovers.  Ask your vet what to give your dog to remedy an upset stomach.
• Your dog will be lethargic as his or her nervous system recovers from the effects of anesthesia.
  • Solution: let your dog rest and do not force any strenuous activities or active play for several days.  Gradually introduce activity after 3-5 days, always being careful not to over-exert your dog.
• Your dog’s sense of balance will also be affected; your dog may stumble every now and then.
  • Solution: watch where your dog is going, and do not let your dog go outside or at the stairs.  Your dog may encounter an accident that may
• Expect urinary and fecal incontinence for a few days, and that means accidents.
  • Solution: you may need to line your dog’s bed or crate with absorbent matting that will protect the mattress.  Be prepared to do some extra washing and do not scold or punish your dog whenever the accidents happen.  Once the effect of anesthesia wears off, your dog will regain bladder and bowel control.
• Because of the pain from the surgery, your dog will be irritated and aggressive.
  • Solution: keep your kids away from your dog for a while and do not play with your dog too aggressively.  If your dog does not feel like playing, do not force the issue.  Other dogs should also be kept away from her for a few days.  Always make sure that you keep up with your dog’s pain medication to lessen the pain and discomfort.
• Your dog will have the constant desire to lick at the sutures because of the discomfort.
  • Solution: prevent this action by keeping on your dog’s Elizabeth collar on.  This is the collar that is shaped almost exactly like a lamp shade.  This is to be kept on for 14 days, until the sutures are removed.  Your dog’s saliva has many bacteria that can infect the incision.

Your vet will recommend a diet that will help promote the healing process.  Usually, the diet is rich in protein, fiber, and also some supplements just in case your dog will have no appetite for a long time.  Clean your dog’s suture three times a day with betadine for the duration that is recommended by your doctor.

This will help hasten the healing process, and also protect your dog from infection.  Do not let your dog jump around and run while the suture is still intact. Excessive activity will only break open the suture, causing further complications.  If your dog is not showing any signs of improvement for 72 hours, go to the vet so proper management will be given and complications are prevented.

When you buy a crate, make sure that it allows your dog to fit inside perfectly without cramping him.  A dog must be able to walk inside without having to stoop too low to gain access.  He must also not position himself awkwardly just to keep himself inside.  A perfect crate will also have a removable top as this will be help your dog to get use staying inside the crate.

Once you have purchased the crate for your dog, place it in an area where your dog usually spends his time in the house.  Open the door and do not start crate training right away.  Let him investigate the crate to his leisure so he will get the feel of it.  Whenever he is near, tell him what the crate is for and have it come across that the crate is safe.

After a couple of days, place a toy inside the crate leaving the door open and see how he reacts.   If your dog is proving to be skittish and wish nothing to do with the crate, remove the top and see for a couple of days how he would react.  Always make sure that the door of the crate is still open.  Then start feeding him inside the crate.

At first, do not put the food way too far inside the crate.  Just a little beyond the crate opening will be enough.  Stay with him while he eats and praise him afterwards.  Slowly put his dog dish deeper inside daily until it reaches inside the crate.  Before you reach the middle part, put back the top and see how it goes.

If he’s anxious, move a little further back and see if you can inch the dog dish a little deeper the next day.  With each passing day, move the dog dish deeper and deeper until it reaches the end.

If your dog is comfortable eating inside the crate, close the door without leaving him.  The moment he’s finished, pull open the door and let him out.  Praise him for being a good dog, and give him a treat.  After a couple of days, close the door for 5 minutes and then let him out.

If he starts to become agitated, let him out before he starts to whine.  Gradually increase the amount of time he spends inside the crate everyday, making sure that you always stay with your dog as you do so.  Once he gets used to being in the crate for certain duration of time, start leaving him alone for a couple of minutes, and then come back.  Do not open the crate yet.  Praise him for waiting and let him out after a while.

Every time your dog goes in the crate give him an associative command like “In crate” or “go inside your crate.”   Once your dog is comfortable being left inside the crate with the door locked, see if he will follow your command without using any treat or food.  You can then start leaving your dog for several minutes alone inside the house by going outside for a while, gradually increasing the number of minutes each day.

Do bear in mind that crates are not intended to be used as a form of punishment.  Only close the door when it is necessary, keeping it open for your dog to come in and go as he please.  Once your dog is inside the crate, no one in the family must disturb him – this is his place to relax and unwind.

Do not to consider in paper training if you plan to housebreak your dog, this option will delay house training.  Your dog will get confused on the proper way to answer the call of nature, making potty training more difficult.  Only choose one form of potty training to help eliminate confusion.

You need lots of paper for this process.  You have to layer the paper thick enough to absorb urine without seeping through the floor.  The thickness will depend on the size of your dog.  A puppy will require at a layer of least ¼ inch thick.  Bigger dogs will need up to ½ to ¾ inch of layered paper to properly absorb wetness.  Always have a set of cleaning supplies ready like brooms, scrubbers, and disinfectant cleaners.  You may want to throw in a pair of gloves and a mask to protect yourself and in case you cannot stand the smell.

Place the paper in a place that can be easily cleaned.  The floor must be bare or lined with linoleum.  Never place your paper on a carpeted floor; there would be times when your dog will pee a bit too much that it would seep through.  Do not place the paper in the kitchen or near a place where food is usually kept or eaten.  The usual option is the bathroom since the floor is covered with tiles and can easily be cleaned in case of accidents.

Some opt to confine the dog in the place where the paper is located.  Place your dog’s paraphernalia opposite the paper if you are thinking of doing the same thing.  This will keep him entertained for a while until he feels the need to relieve himself.  You need to stay with him to observe his movements.  A dog that is feeling the urgency will sniff the floor and walk around in circles. 

Once you see your dog doing this behavior, place him on the paper and encourage him to pee.  Saying “go pee” or something similar can be used, but do not expect your dog to fully understand you for several days.  You can give him a soup dish or a drink of water to speed up the process.  Once he pees, praise him for doing so and give him a treat.

Expect your puppy to relieve himself every 2 -3 hours, especially after meals.  To make this training consistent, make it a point to feed your dog the same time each day.  Always keep your eye on your dog so you can observe his movements and also to watch out for cues that will tell you that your dog needs to relieve himself.  Bring him to his paper whenever he gives those cues so he will get the point and will always search for his paper to do his ritual.

If only your dog is the same car loving, speed seeking dog that you want him to be.  A dog usually develops car anxiety when he only rides in the car during trips to the vet to get a shot or be examined.  You have to do some behavioral modification to make him like car trips and eagerly look forward to them.

To get your dog to look forward to car rides, have him make his acquaintance with the car slowly.  Bring him close to the car on a leash and let him first smell the outside of the car.  If he pees on the wheel, take it as a good sign because that means he is marking the car as his territory.  Once he is used to the presence of the car, then you can start taking him inside the car.

Once inside the car, do not turn on the engine.  Just let your dog sit inside with a leash on and let him explore his surroundings.  He may start by smelling the interior, looking at the dials, and investigating what can be found beneath the seats.  Describe to him what he is seeing to further make him familiar with the car.  If he wants out, let him out and start again tomorrow.

Remember that the purpose of the exercise is to make him comfortable.  He would associate the car with an unpleasant experience if you force him to stay when he does not want to.  Bring him to another level by closing the doors, with the windows open, and then with the windows closed.

When your dog is now comfortable with the inside of the car, start up the engine without necessarily putting it in motion.  Observe how your dog reacts.  If he reacts unfavorably by barking, howling, and scratching the door or window to get out, stop the engine and wait for a couple of minutes.

Calm him down and tell him that what he just experienced is just the engine of the car and will not harm him.  Once he is calm, wait for a few minutes and tell him you will start the car again.  If he still freaks out, stop the engine, calm him down, and then leave the car.  Do the entire procedure again tomorrow.

Once your dog is comfortable with the vibration of the engine, you can actually put the car in motion.  Leave the windows barely down, with your dog on the leash.  Leave a gap that is enough to let the air circulate but not too much as to let your dog jump out of the window.  Drive around the block once and see how your dog will take it.

Praise him for being well behaved and describe to him the scenery that he is seeing.  If he is all shaken up throughout the ordeal, stop the car and calm him down inside the car.  Once he is calm, open the door and let him go back inside.

You can now slowly increase the length of car travel for your dog.  Take him when you go for a trip in a local drugstore or a nearby convenience store.   Always bring him along if you can whenever you have to go out.  Just remember not to leave him too long inside on his own or he will go back to being anxious.

Other dogs have been noted to perish inside a car that has been left running for too long due to carbon monoxide inhalation and or extreme temperatures. Sometimes the kinder thing is to leave your companion safe and comfortable at home while you run errands.

You may be tempted to start saving on dog food.  Dog food is indeed expensive, more so compared to human food.  It is not advisable to go cheap on your dog’s nutrition.  The better the food he eats, the healthier he will be, minimizing cost on vet visits because of illness brought about by bad nutrition. 

If you cannot avoid doing so, consider the one that is next in line to your dog food rather than those incredibly cheap ones on sale.  They only contain fillers and extenders that are designed to make the portions look big; in reality, these are less satisfying for your dog.  You will only end up buying either the equivalent of your usual expense on dog food, and even more.

Maintain your dog by grooming him yourself.  Have a friend teach you the basic ways to help groom your dog if you do not know how, or look for a free dog grooming class that is held in your town every now and then.  You will end up saving up to $500 dollars a year just on pet grooming services alone.

Refrain yourself from buying that cute toy that you just saw at the pet store.  It is not needed, especially if you have more than a dozen toys for your dog.  If you see your dog getting bored with his toys, hide all of them for 3 days, leaving out just one toy for him to play with.  Then you can start cycling the toys by bringing out a new toy every couple of days or so while hiding the one he has finished playing with.  Remember to always wash them before you store them away to keep them clean.  If you must buy a toy, buy something that will stand the attacks of your dog’s teeth.  This way, the toy will last longer and there are fewer chances that he will accidentally destroy it.

Mix the treats that you give your dog.  Your dog’s favorite kibble can be used as a good treat for him every now and then.  Vegetables such as carrots and broccoli are most loved by dogs and can also be used as a treat when your dog has done a good deed.  If kibbles are to be used, measure the amount that you will use in a day so you will be able to extend a bag for days or weeks.   If your dog is not lactose intolerant, cheese can also be a perfect treat for them.

If you wish to keep your dog adorable by giving them clothes, you do not have to buy a new one every now and then.  Three sets of clothing will be enough to last him for a year or so, depending on how well you wash and store them.

Once you have started getting into saving the right way for your dog, everything will follow.  The general rule is, do not save on dog food, but save on anything else.  If you are buying cheap products, make sure you are getting a good deal by checking its quality and durability.  Buying a cheap object that will only need to be replaced often will cost you more than what you think you are saving.

Unfortunately, dogs are not able to tell us outright that they are feeling something painful, so it is up to dog owners to observe and decipher their body language.  Generally, dogs who are in pain would exhibit the following conditions:

• Your dog’s heart rate and respiratory rate will increase.  As a reaction to pain, your dog’s body will produce a several hormones that will dull out the pain.  These hormones can cause your dog to breath excessively and have a heart rate that is above normal.  Normal respiratory rate of dogs are between 15-20 breaths per minute while normal heart rate is between 80-120 beats per minute.

• Whenever your dog would feel the onset of pain, he may moan and whimper.  Excessive pain will cause him to yelp if he cannot stand it.

• Your dog will assume a guarded position where he would crouch down and try to support the painful body part.  If a leg is painful, he would protect it by keeping it elevated.

• Your dog will also have the reduced desire to move or be active.  He is likely to just lie down on his bed and wait for the pain to go away.  If you observe him closely you will notice that he would occasionally look at the area from time to time and lick it in an attempt to soothe himself.

• He would also have that glassy eyed appearance as his concentration is centered on the pain and not on his surroundings.

• Behavioral changes can also happen.  Your dog may either become excessively affectionate for wanting comfort.  Or, he may be belligerent and snarl, growl, and bark at anyone that comes near for fear that the pain will be intensified due to contact.

• You will also observe that your dog will lack the desire to eat or drink.

• If the pain is intense, your dog will tremble and can stumble while walking.

• He may also sleep less as the pain keeps your dog awake.

There are some dogs that have such a low pain threshold that they will immediately make you aware that they are feeling something by constant whining and moaning.

Other dog breeds, on the other hand, have a higher tolerance to pain and will tolerate it as much as they can.  The only way for you to know that they are feeling something is by observing for any change in usual behavior.  Take note on when you noticed the change in behavior for your vet will need this to make a conclusive diagnosis of your dog’s condition.

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• Straining during bowel movements
• Distended stomach
• Yelping during defecation
• Reluctance to defecate
• Loss of appetite
• Increased frequency of bowel movement but with small or scant amount of stool

Constipation is not breed-specific in dogs.  Any breed can experience the problem.  Mostly it is observed on older dogs because the peristaltic movement of the intestines has slowed down.  A diet that has low amounts of fiber and with high levels of protein can also be a factor in causing constipation.  Lack of water intake during a hot, balmy day is also seen as a reason for your dog to get constipated.

Remedies

It’s very easy to solve canine constipation, as long as you know the cause.

1)  Always make sure that your dog is properly hydrated.  A dog that is suffering from dehydration will lose bulk and lubrication in stool, making it difficult to defecate.  See to it that his water bottle is always filled with water.  Place a bowl of water beside your dog’s food bowl during eating to encourage your dog to drink after eating.

2)  Increase the fiber intake of your food by giving him vegetables and oat bran.  If your dog is very fond of kibbles, read the package and check if it has at least 5% of fiber in it.

3)  Canned pumpkin is also a common remedy for constipation because of its high fiber and water content.  Your vet will guide you on just how much to feed to your dog depending on his size and weight.

4)  With dogs being lactose intolerant, milk can promote bowel movement.  Give this only when your dog is constipated and not when his body system is normal.  This can cause and also worsen diarrhea, so use it with caution.

5)  Increase the frequency of your dog’s exercise. Muscle movement promotes increased metabolism and also peristaltic movement.

6)  Laxatives can also help cure your dog of constipation.  However, these are to be used with caution and with the guidance of your vet.  Abuse and misuse of the medication can only worsen constipation problems of your dog.

See which solutions can be suitable for your dogs.  You may try to mix two remedies to make sure it would work, but always with caution.  Always check with your vet to see which remedy can give the best results with the minimum amount of discomfort.

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Consider first your lifestyle.  A dog needs constant attention as they are social animals.  Aside from that, they are not exactly capable of looking and cleaning up after themselves.  You must devote time, energy, and effort in feeding, grooming, and keeping your dog.

You must have free hours to spare to play with him, to visit the vet during routine checkups.  You may also need to come with him for an obedience class if you want to have a highly trained and disciplined dog.

Get your finances in order.  Dogs do not come cheap, no matter how you would look at it.  A good breed of dog can be highly expensive.  Saving does not bode well to dog breeds for it only encourages puppy mills to produce substandard puppies that have health issues.  If you want to save puppies from puppy mills, do not patronize them.

Buying from them only gives them power and resources to continue breeding substandard puppies in miserable conditions.  It is best that you report them to American Kennel Club (AKC) for appropriate action.  The cost does not necessarily end in buying a puppy.

You need to consider if you have a stable income to maintain your home and family while giving your dog kibbles, dog food, a leash, dog grooming necessities, shots, annual checkups and emergency visits to the vet.

Do you have kids or elderly people at home?  Dogs can be overwhelming for both, even the most behaved ones.  Some dog breeds are also dangerous to keep if you have those two types of people at home.  Even the most adoring dog can become the hound of Hades if your child pulls on its tail too roughly, or when your grandmother rolls over on his paw with her wheelchair.

Your place must be conducive for dogs.  He must have his own sleeping area that does not always have to be outside.  See if your apartment complex has a policy regarding pet ownership.  Make sure that you have enough space for the size of the breed you are wishing for.

Consider the health condition of each member of the family, including you.  Dogs are not advised for people with asthma, especially if it is triggered by animal down.  See if you have enough stamina to take your dog out for a walk or other activities needed to keep the dog happy and healthy.

Do your research on the breeder.  Get to know him and see if you can be invited inside where the dogs are kept.  Once you are allowed, see if the living conditions are acceptable and if the dogs are not being mistreated.

Do not be afraid to ask questions about the dog you’re going to buy.  A good breeder is always welcome to answering questions.  Be prepared to answer a few questions about you for concerned breeders also want to make sure that the potential owner is good for his dog before a sale is agreed on.

A dog requires a lot of attention, so consider carefully every little thing about yourself and your potential dog before making a decision.  Full responsibility is needed to take care of a dog, no matter what age, size, and breed they come.  Consider also rescuing a dog from your local shelter.  Sometimes, the perfect dog can be found in the most unusual conditions.

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Get to know your dog’s nail anatomy first before you proceed on grooming.  Unlike human nails, it has an extension of blood vessels in a part called the quick.  This nail part also has nerve endings.  Cutting through this part will cause bleeding and pain, so be very careful.

For dogs that have light colored nails, the quick is seen as a pale pink part.   Dogs with dark-colored nails need to be trimmed carefully for this part cannot be seen.

Buy a really sharp nail clipper that is specially made for dogs.  Ordinary nail cutters cannot cut through your dog’s nails effectively and comfortably.  Invest in a good one for you will be doing a lot of trimming.  It is best to start clipping away while your dog is still a puppy so he can get used to the ritual.

Do not cut the nails right away.  You must prepare your dog before you go through the procedure. Not doing so will cause some anxiety and your dog will resist your attempts every way possible.

Try to touch your dog’s paws first and talk to him in a soothing manner.  Introduce the nail clipper to him and tell him what it is designed to do.  Don’t cut away the entire paw of your dog.  Just start with a nail or two then proceed again the next day.

When you cut your dog’s nail, it is important that both you and your dog are comfortably positioned.   You may place your dog on top of the table either with him on his stomach or lying on his side.  Talk to him in a soothing, calming voice throughout the entire procedure to calm him down and to reassure him.

Grasp the clipper with your dominant hand and unsheathe the nail carefully.  If your dog has clear nails, cut up to 2mm of the nails, almost but not quite touching the quick.  For dogs with nails of darker color, chip away carefully.  Look in your dog’s nail after each small nip.  Stop when you see a large, pearly gray area at the top cross section of your dog’s nail.

There may be times when even though you are careful, you will still cut through the quick.  Your dog will yelp in pain and bleed. You can apply pressure on the nail with the use of a light tissue.  If you want to stop the bleeding immediately, a styptic pencil with silver nitrate seal the edge.  To stop the bleeding, you have to rotate the styptic pencil on the cut end of the nail.

Since the area is quite raw, your dog will not like it.  You may also wait for the bleeding to stop; generally 5 minutes is all it takes or less for the blood to clot.  If it continues to go beyond that time frame, go to the vet.  Remember to do the same procedure to your dog’s dew claw. It is attached at the side of your dog’s leg above the rest of the other toes.

You and your dog will do a lot of struggling during the first few cuts.  Keep up with the grooming, though, for it will keep your dog’s skin and fur safe from getting destroyed by sharp, overly long nails.

To start with dental care, it is important that you not sit down with your dog and have a go at it in one shot.  This can only lead to a huge struggle that can end up with your dog resenting each tooth brushing session.  Or worse, you might get bitten in the process. Remember that you are in very, VERY close proximity with your dog’s mouth and huge danger of getting bitten if you don’t do this process right.

1)  The first thing that you have to do is to have your dog get used to you introducing something in his mouth that does not necessarily mean food.  You may want to buy a few samples of dog toothpaste in your pet store, or have your vet suggest a popular toothpaste that is always bought by other pet owners.  You must not use human toothpaste for your dog will swallow it and can cause him to become ill.

Dog toothpaste comes in several flavors that is quite similar to the taste of food much loved by dogs.  They are also formulated to be safe for dogs when they swallow it.  See which toothpaste your dog would like.  Have him taste the toothpaste several times in the day until he gets used to it.

2)  Next thing you have to do is introduce him to the tooth brush.  Tooth brushes come in several forms.  For small dogs, a toothbrush that fits on your finger is ideal.  This is just like the brush for babies, only with a lot more bristles.

Let him investigate the toothbrush through smelling and licking.  Tell him what the tooth brush is for and that the next time he sees it, it would be used for brushing his teeth.  It may help if you let your dog see you brushing your teeth.

3)  When your dog has chosen his preferred toothpaste and has also accepted his toothbrush, you can now start introducing it into his mouth.  Don’t be concerned with brushing your dog’s teeth at this point.

Just place a small amount of toothpaste on the toothbrush would be enough.  Proceed in rubbing the toothbrush against your dog’s teeth.  Just make it fun and not long-drawn.  Just start rubbing it from the back teeth up to the front.  It should take just about 30 seconds or less.

4)  Once your dog has gotten used to having an object being rubbed on his teeth, you can now start with serious brushing.  Have a towel handy, and do not wear your favorite clothes.  Your dog might slobber on you, so take precautions.  Assume a comfortable position that allows you access to your dog’s teeth without straining yourself and your dog.

Lift your dog’s upper lips and brush your dog’s teeth and gums.  Do not worry about having limited access at first.  Just start with what’s visible, rubbing in a firm, circular motion as you clean your dog’s teeth.

Eventually, your dog will allow you to reach the teeth located at the very back of his mouth.  That area needs special attention for it is most loved by bacteria that cause periodontal disease.  Start with the top set of teeth before moving to the bottom.

5)  Wash your dog’s toothbrush well and store it in a dry place away from your dog’s and children’s reach.  Don’t put it along with your own set of toothbrush for you may accidentally use it.

Remember to praise your dog with each process, and never make toothbrushing a stressful ritual.  Talk to your dog with a calm, encouraging voice to ease his worry over the procedure.  Give your dog a treat after brushing.

When done right, your dog will look forward to brushing his teeth.  If your dog is among the breeds that are predisposed to dental problems, always make sure to have a regular dental check up and cleaning with your vet.  The added attention will keep your dog’s teeth clean, white, and healthy.

Signs and Symptoms of Wax Build-UP

One of the tell-tale signs of ear wax build-up is presentation of brown ear wax in dogs.  This is seen when you lift your dog’s ears.  You won’t be able to see pass the ear canal for the build-up has blocked visualization of your dog’s ear.  This blockage further limits the circulation of air in your dog’s ear, trapping in moisture and heat that is quite conducive for microbial growth.

Your dog will also continually scratch his ears, shaking his head, and his pillow or blanket will show small amounts of ear wax that your dog has shaken loose.  Odor is also noted in your dog’s ear when ear wax has accumulated.

Treatment

You might be tempted, but you must refrain yourself from using Q-tips, small pointed objects, or any other similar contraption that can fit itself inside your dog’s ears.  Inserting objects inside your dog’s ear canal will only push the ear wax further inside your dog’s ear and can cause other ear problems.  Other than that, there is a high risk of you puncturing your dog’s ear drum.

Before cleaning your dog’s ear, you may want to loosen the ear wax.  There are some solutions available in your vet’s office for this purpose.  Others recommend a mixture of vinegar and water to help loosen the wax.  A mixture of 1 part vinegar and 2 parts water is used as an ear wax softener.  If you are using this mixture, you may need to have something to put this inside your dog’s ears.

A turkey baster, a medicine dropper, or a small syringe without a needle can do the trick.  Pure cotton balls and a couple of towels are also needed.  Change into a pair of clothing that you won’t worry about getting stained or ruined.  Gloves, masks, and goggles are optional, but if you’re feeling squeamish over flying earwax you may want these protective equipments with you.

You need to do this in an area where you won’t worry about getting expensive furniture or equipment getting damaged.  A pillow may also be necessary to support your dog’s head on your lap. Once these materials and equipments are set up, then you’re ready to go.

1)  Lay your dog sideways with his head supported by your lap. If the position is too awkward, you may need to place a pillow to further elevate his head.  Gently and carefully lift up your dog’s ear to reveal the ear canal.  If you plan to use a commercial brand of ear solution, follow the package instructions on how much to place in your dog’s ears.

If you’re going to use the homemade solution a tablespoon is enough for big dogs, while a teaspoon is good for small dogs and puppies.  Restrain your dog gently and firmly while you place the solution in his ear while talking to him soothingly and calmly.  Do not let your dog shake his head yet.  Placing your fingers behind his ears, carefully shake it for 30-60 seconds until a squishing sound is heart.

Let go of your dog and let him shake his head.  Expect to have some flying ear wax while he’s doing it.  If you don’t have any personal protective equipment, you may want to stand clear and protect yourself from getting hit.

2)  With a lot of cotton balls, clean your dog’s ear softly and carefully.  Roll the cotton ball to fit inside the canal and let it soak the ear wax and remaining solution.  You can remove the loosened ear wax with a scooping motion, wiping outward and upward.

Change cotton balls in each turn, until the cotton balls are clean.  Wipe out any earwax left outside your dog’s ears and those located inside crevices. If indicated, apply the ear medication.  Do the same process with the other ear.

After the process, praise your dog, give him a hug and a treat.  Never make this a huge ordeal and see to it that your dog is comfortable throughout the entire procedure.  It is recommended that you do this cleaning on a weekly basis, or according to the advice of your vet.

Note: Constant shaking of head, scratching of ear, pain when scratching, pus or bloody discharge, foul smell, and imbalance are signs of ear infection.  it is advised that you have your dog checked by a vet to rule out presence of ear infection or for prompt and immediate treatment.

Small breeds can also develop this condition, depending on their genetic make-up.  Depending on your dog’s condition and type of arthritis, your dog may start to show signs of arthritis as late as 10 years or as early as 4 years.

Types of Canine Arthritis

There are many types of canine arthritis in dogs.  Each have different causes, but all create the same mobility and comfort problems that your dog has to cope with.

• Osteoarthritis: commonly a problem of old dogs, this is a degenerative joint condition that results from the destruction of the cartilage that protects the joint heads.  If this protective coating is destroyed, the bones would rub against each other, causing progressive erosion.

• Immune-mediated: a type of arthritis where your dog’s own immune system attacks the join’s protective coating.  This would result to an inflammatory response that can cause swelling, pain, and stiffness.

• Infections: some forms of arthritis are caused by microbial infections.

• Idiopathic: a type of arthritis where the cause is unknown no matter how intensive the clinical studies are performed.

Causes of Canine Arthritis

Each type of arthritis has different causes.  The following are among the common causes of canine arthritis documented through extensive studies and research.

• Age: as dogs grow old, their bodies degenerate and that includes their joints.  Although a common cause, some dogs can reach old age without experiencing arthritis, or some dogs can suffer the condition without necessarily being old.

• Genetics: some breed types are much more predisposed to experiencing arthritis compared to others.  Bad breeding techniques applied by indiscriminating dog breeders have also caused some changes in the genes of dogs that normally should be tolerant to arthritis

• Diet: poor feeding practices in dogs can cause arthritis in dogs.   Improper balancing of minerals and protein can cause some inflammatory problems that can lead to formation of arthritis.

• Hip Dysplacia: dogs that have this condition are certainly predisposed to having the disease.  Caused by genetic and/or environmental factors, a dog with this condition his observed with weak and painful joints.

• Obesity: since the problem is often located on weight-bearing joints, a dog that his obese will be predisposed to this condition because of the excess weight that is causing pressure on joints.

• Trauma: a highly active dog may experience some repeated trauma, or have a severe one that can damage a joint cartilage or two.  Trauma can include accidents, falls, a bad landing from a high jump, or a bad step while running.

Signs and Symptoms of Canine Arthritis

Even though there are different types of arthritis, generally they have the same signs and symptoms.  These signs and symptoms of canine arthritis can come either gradually or abruptly, depending on your dog’s condition.

• Your dog may gradually prefer one limb over the other, or limping.

• Your dog will start to show reluctance in walking or climbing steep hills or stairs. The dog also refuses or is having a hard time jumping and playing.

• Depending on your dog’s type of arthritis, stiffness may be noted in the morning upon waking up, or late in the afternoon.

• Standing up after sleeping is a problem, or after resting for a long time

• Refusing to be touched for the slightest pressure on the joints is extremely painful.

• Mood changes because of lack of mobility and change in lifestyle and pain.  Your normally cheerful dog will be highly sensitive, gloomy, and even irritable.

Relief Measures for Canine Arthritis

There are a lot of relief measures for canine arthritis, ranging from home remedies, medications, physical therapy, and surgery.  A mix of the treatments applied according to your dog’s health status for rehabilitation to be effective.

Home Remedies:

• Exercise your dog regularly.  It is not necessary to tire your dog out.  What’s important is to keep your dog active without causing harm on his joints.  Jogging, jumping, going through obstacle courses to beat a time limit are no longer suitable activities for him.  What you need to do is have him out for a walk for a certain length, or better yet take him out for a swim.  Swimming allows your dog to use all of his major muscle groups and without putting pressure on his joints.

• Manage your dog’s weight.  As obesity is the cause or one of the aggravating conditions, helping your dog lose weight will be one of the best management for canine arthritis.

• Dietary supplements: Supplements high in anti-inflammatory properties such as MSM can be very good to help lessen the inflammation of your dog’s joints.

• Proper sleeping conditions.  Provide a firm mattress that can support your dog’s weight without getting deformed.  Place it in a warm place away from drafts to lessen your dog’s stiffness while he sleeps.  Keep it elevated than usual so your dog will find it easy to lie down on it as well as get up from.

• Massage your dog: softly massage your dog’s paws in a smooth motion towards the heart.  This will help circulate your dog’s blood, sooth him, and as well as give you the chance to feel for any deformities or lumps.

• Heat application: heat packs are just perfect to help lessen your dog’s pain. Heat packs applied on your dog’s knees, shoulders, and hips for 20 minutes, 3 times a day is just like the paraffin wax treatment used for human arthritis and can relieve pain the same way.

• Acupuncture: see to it that the person giving acupuncture to your dog is highly trained for this procedure.  Ask your vet if he has undergone such training or he could refer you to someone who is capable of giving this treatment to your dog.  Depending on how effective the treatment is, your dog may have lesser pain medication or none at all.

Therapy:

This treatment will greatly limit the progression of joint stiffness due to canine arthritis.  Ask your vet for proper range of motion exercises that can be done to your dog to keep the integrity of your dog’s joints intact without causing harm and further degeneration.

Medications:

For pain management, you may need to use NSAID’s that are either over the counter or prescribed.  Just remember to ask for your vet’s advice on how to give them to your dog.  Never use your own medication to help your dog for its formulation is quite toxic for your canine friend

• Rimadyl^®:  This medication is to be used with caution for it can bring out serious side effects.  Liver and blood tests are to be done regularly to make sure that the drug does not adversely affect your dog.

• Adequan: given via injection twice a week, this drug relieves pain, helps cartilage repair, inhibit the action of inflammatory enzymes, and promote the production of synovial fluid (the fluid found in joints).  This is given to your dog up to 4 weeks to relieve pain and inflammation.

• Palprin6 – this is a buffered aspirin given in a chewable form.  What’s good about this drug is that the gastrointestinal irritation commonly experienced in aspirin is eliminated. Do note that this medication is only for canine use, so don’t be tempted to use it for yourself.

Surgery:

If the deformity or degeneration as well as pain, swelling, and motility problems are so severe, your vet may recommend corrective surgery for your dog.  Before you agree to this procedure, consider the health status and stamina of your canine friend.

Evaluate first if your dog can tolerate the procedure, and if your dog can handle the stress of healing without experiencing any complications.  After surgery, your dog still requires therapy to promote limb function.

As with any other types of disease in dogs, prompt and adequate management through proper diagnosis is the vital in solving canine arthritis.  Once you see the signs and symptoms of canine arthritis manifesting in your dog, do not hesitate to have an appointment with your vet.

Remember that treatment for each dog is unique.  What would work for one will not necessarily work for the other and vice versa.  These treatments are only aimed to help your dog cope with the difficulties of arthritis and not cure him totally of the disease.

Try and experiment with each treatment to see which of them your dog responds better to.  The earlier you treat your dog’s arthritis, the better prognosis your dog will have in coping with canine arthritis.

Note: this article is not intended to replace professional advice and recommendation of veterinarians.  This serves only as a guide or as an information supplement for canine arthritis.  Your vet is still the best person to diagnose and give treatment for your dog.

Research on why dogs eat grass is still inconclusive.  Some speculate that grass eating is a result from a gastrointestinal disorder.  Usually, dogs that eat grass are found to have gastric ulcers, worms, or just typically an upset stomach.

It seems that the grass acts as a binder for the toxins or worms that infest your dog’s digestive tract, and is purged along with the grass when your dog either vomits or has diarrhea.  It is still a mystery if your dog vomits or has diarrhea because of the grass, or he does so because he initially has stomach problems.

Pregnancy can also cause your dog to eat grass.  Usually, this happens when your dog is at the first stage of pregnancy.   You will notice that before your pregnant dog would eat grass she would show signs of being nauseated, but nothing comes out.   It seems to help calm her stomach after inducing her to vomit.  However, this is a case to case basis.  Some pregnant dogs will not eat grass during the duration of their pregnancy.

Dogs also seem to prefer eating grass that has been constantly urinated on by other dogs or animals.  The keenest senses of canines are their sense of smell and taste.  Once they have caught the scent of another canine that has urinated on a patch of grass, they would munch away.

It may be because the dog is gathering information about the dog that has marked its territory.  Or, it could be that the taste of that particular grass is much better compared to others.  Urine has urea, a component that is found to enrich plants and a common compound found in composts and commercial fertilizers.

Other dog owners theorize that dogs eat grass because it is a common part of a dog’s diet in the wild.  Even if wild dogs hunt game, grass and other vegetation are still found inside the intestines of these animals.  The preference has evolved because dogs cannot simply pick out grass from the inert parts of what they have killed.

Grass-eating is quite harmless to dogs.  Just make sure that the grass that they are eating are not prayed with harmful insecticides and maintained by use of commercial fertilizers.  These chemicals are harmful for dogs, and can create health complications. If you are concerned with your dog’s grass grazing habit, try to substitute some vegetables in the diet.

A lot of pet owners have found that supplementing their dog’s diet with raw vegetables such as carrots and lettuce lessens the grazing of dogs.  Excessive vomiting and diarrhea may or may not be brought about by grass eating and regardless of the cause, warrants an immediate visit with the vet.

Seizures are caused by a neurological disturbance in the brain.  These disturbances can cause a loss of consciousness on your dog, and can proceed to sending off series of uncontrolled electrical impulses from the brain to several parts of the body, particularly the limbs and facial muscles.  An attack can be quite disturbing and definitely exhausting for your pet.

Causes of seizures in dogs

Usually the cause of seizures is unknown.  Approximately around 5% of dogs suffer idiopathic seizures.  This means even in the absence of a known cause, your dog may still suffer from an attack when it is least expected.   However, some dogs suffer seizures because of the following:

• Genetics: certain dog breeds are more prone to suffering seizures compared to others.  These breeds can include but not excluding:
  • Cocker-Spaniels
  • Labrador
  • Golden retrievers
  • German shepherds
  • Beagles
  • Dachshunds.
• Blood sugar levels: a drop in blood sugar can cause loss of consciousness and seizure in dogs that have been given too much insulin.  High levels can also cause seizures.

• Hypocalcemia: usually seen in puppies with an acute infestation of worms.  It can also happen in lactating dogs for their calcium storage is being secreted in breast milk.

• Medical conditions: liver and kidney disease have been linked to seizure disorders.  Liver problems can cause the increase in ammonia in the blood, while kidney problems can cause electrolyte imbalances and build up of toxins that lead to seizures.

• Head Trauma: a dog that just had an accident or has been given a blow on the head is at high risk for having seizures.  Blood clots can form in the brain, as well as swelling that can cause an inflammatory response that can compromise blood circulation in the brain.  This can disrupt the flow of impulses in the brain as well as cause an imbalance in the neurotransmitters, causing seizure episodes.

• Infections: encephalitis is a common cause of seizures, as well as distemper and rabies to name a few.

• Toxins: lead toxicity is one of the major causes of seizure episodes in dogs for it is commonly found within the household (i.e. tarpaper, roofing materials, peeling oil-based paints, etc).  Certain foods can also cause seizure such as onions and chocolates.

General symptoms of Seizures

Dogs show different signs and symptoms of seizures depending on the degree of severity of an attack.

• Petit Mal: this type of seizure is often missed by dog owners because the signs and symptoms are somewhat similar to other medical conditions.  Signs and symptoms include:
  • Fine tremors
  • Excessive salivation/drooling
  • Whining
  • Spontaneous urination
  • Loss of balance
• Grand Mal: the most violent type of seizure.  Major muscle parts of the body are greatly affected, leading to more obvious manifestations.  Also known as tonic-clonic seizure, your dog will first show sudden rigidity of limbs that can be accompanied by a stop in breathing that can last for 30 seconds.  Los of consciousness may or may not ensue, followed by the excessive muscular stimulation.

• Status epilepticus: by far the most alarming type of seizure in dogs.  May present either petit mal or grand mal seizure that can last for more than five minutes.  This is the most life-threatening type of seizure, with the risk of cardio-pulmonary arrest, as well as oxygen deprivation of the brain.

Stages

Dogs exhibit an attack in several phases.  Knowing and understanding these phases can help you recognize an impending seizure and what to do as your dog pass each one.

• Pre-Ictal phase – dogs exhibit certain behaviors before an onset of an attack. Initially, they would be hyperactive and anxious, as if sensing that an attack would occur any moment.  The would seek out the owner and would often be highly affectionate, as if seeking help or reassurance.  Others would prefer to look for a dark, quiet place and wait for the seizure to take over.

• Ictal phase– this is the onset of the seizure itself.  Usual attacks can last between seconds to 5 minutes.  It is important that you do not touch or do anything to your dog for you may severely injure yourself in the process.  Countless owners have been hospitalized because of the attempt to prevent the dog from “swallowing its tongue” during an attack. All you have to do is stay with your dog and wait for the seizure to stop.  Do not panic, do not shout, and do not shake your dog.  Doing so would only prolong the episode.  Move your dog to a rug on the floor, turn off the lights or draw the shades.  You must also turn of any form of noise in the room such the TV or radio.  Keep the kids from the room for this can be severely distressing for them and can cause them to cry out and scream, making matters worse.

• Post-Ictal Phase – after an episode, your dog will be severely spent and exhausted.  He would also show some difficulty so it is highly imperative that you remain with your dog to comfort him in this phase.  Your dog may be will be blind for nearly an hour or so, deaf, uncoordinated and unbalanced, and can be highly frightened. You must sooth and comfort your dog as he recovers his senses.  If he did not defecate or urinate in the ictal phase, he would do so now.

Treatment

Medication for seizure is commonly directed on the cause of the seizure.  Medical conditions are properly treated, and external factors are eliminated as much as possible.  The modality of treatment for this condition is more palliative than curative.  Anti-seizure medications are given to prevent increased occurrence of seizure and lessen its duration, but not stop it from occurring totally.

Treatments include Phenobarbital, potassium bromide, as well as primidone.  The treatment takes about 1 to 2 weeks.  It is important that you bring your dog to the vet when seizure has occurred to fully diagnose the cause as well as give adequate and prompt treatment for the condition.

But then again, experts beg to differ.  Through research, it has been found that a dog’s eye has different amounts of photoreceptors compared to us humans.  There are two photoreceptors in the retina: rods and cones.  The rods are responsible for night vision, peripheral vision, and perception of black and white.

The cones on the other hand, are responsible for day vision, central vision, and color perception.  A dog’s eye is mostly made up of rods, and only has 10% of cones.  How does this relate to vision?  A dog perceives the world differently.  They see mostly black and white, and can only appreciate color when their nose is already touching an object.

Meaning, your dog will not realize that you’re wearing a pink shirt unless he’s already all over you.  Also, your dog perceives movement differently compared to humans, and some claim that a lower refresh rate will only make viewing harder for dogs.

Still, if dogs cannot watch TV, then how come this skateboarding dog knows how to play a video game?  A dog’s interest may be captured by a sudden movement in the screen, or a sound from another animal.  If they see another animal on screen, they react by barking and wagging their tail.

And, if you hook your TV to a video camera and shoot your dog with it live, your dog will react to his image by growling and barking.  That means a dog can still perceive objects even in 2D.  But dogs do not watch TV if the family is around.

Their attention is mostly riveted on the actions and motions of the family that he’s guarding, so your dog would mostly just ignore the TV.  However, the sounds and sights in a TV can be highly beneficial for your dog if he has separation anxiety.

A human’s eye is appreciative of a TV screen if the refresh rate is around 50Hz-60Hz.  On the other hand, the refresh rate for a dog is around 70Hz-80Hz.  For us, the TV may be running smoothly.  But for dogs, the screen is just like watching an old movie, with the film highly scratched and worn out.

Aside from that, a dog mostly relies on his hearing and smell.  Sights and sounds are secondary for him, and his sense of smell is the most important of all.  This signifies two things: 1) your dog can be somewhat uninterested what’s on the tube for it’s not stimulating his sense of smell.  2) If you make your dog addicted to the tube, his sense of smell would not be stimulated enough and it can eventually dull a somewhat sharp perception.

If you notice that your dog is watching too much TV,  you must lessen his tube time and stimulate him by bringing him outside the house, or presenting him with something new every now and then.

There is still some debate going on over a dog’s ability to watch TV.  What’s important is that you let your dog be a dog by letting him act like one and not love it too much when he’s “acting human” by watching the tube.

As with humans, a stationary dog can have health problems related to lack of mobility and stimulation, so play with him every once in a while.  You are your dog’s best entertainment system, and you will gain more of your dog’s adoration by letting it stay that way.

1)  Your dog barks as a form of warning.  This type of bark is usually started with a low, menacing growl followed by a loud series of sharp bark.  Usually, this is heard when your dog senses that someone is approaching.  To fully understand this bark, see if you have a friend who’s got a dog that has just given birth, ask if you could visit.  Try to walk near while the dog is nursing and you will hear that distinct bark.

1. Solution: try to see what’s eating your dog.  This type of barking is the one that should not be ignored for it may signify an intruder.  But once you notice that the dog is barking at a person you know but he’s not familiar with, hold the dog by the collar and say “STOP” in a firm voice.  Don’t tug at the collar for you may injure your dog’s wind pipe.  Maybe your neighbor’s dog or cat is at your yard and it’s making your dog irritated for your dog’s territory is being invaded.  Scoot the invader away and then tell your dog to “STOP!”  The moment your dog stops barking, praise him and tell him he’s a good dog for knowing how to stop barking.

2)  Your dog is trying on alert.  This form of barking is characterized by low, staccato-like barks.  This behavior is observed whenever the door bell or telephone would ring, or when someone you know is approaching.

1. Solution: see what’s captured your dog’s interest.  If it’s the doorbell, tell your dog “STOP” and when he does, say he’s a good dog for telling you about the door bell.  The same goes for the telephone.  Now, if you still cannot order your dog to stop barking have friend over and ask her to help train your dog.  What your friend can do is ring the doorbell every now and then.  Every time your friend would ring the bell, command your dog to STOP and SIT.  Wait a couple of seconds, and praise your dog or give him a treat.  Tell your dog that one bark is enough when the doorbell rings, then repeat the process again.  The same procedure can be done with the telephone.

3)  Your dog is longing for company, or bored.  When dogs are having separation anxiety issues, they can incessantly bark and howl while you’re gone.  Dogs are pack animals.  This means that your family is not treated as an individual, but a group in which he sees himself as a leader, or the one being led.  If you are gone, as a leader he would worry about your safety.  As the one being led, your dog will feel lost when left alone. This bark is also observed when you put your dog in a kennel, crate, or leash for the first time.

1. Solution: of all the types of barking problems, this is the hardest to correct for it happens during your absence. Behavioral modification can be the only solution to this problem.  You have to train your dog to wait for you while you’re gone.  Address your dog’s separation anxiety issues by leaving the house for a couple of minutes and coming back in just before your dog starts to bark.  Whenever you leave and arrive home, don’t make a fuss.  Tell your dog firmly and as short as possible that you’ll be gone and be back after a couple of hours, then leave.  When you get back, painful as it may seem, ignore your dog for 15 minutes, or until he’s calmed down.  Rub his neck and don’t say you miss him, that you’re glad to see him.  Just rub him and say he’s a good dog for not barking too much while you’re gone.  As for the kennel, crate, and leash issue, you have to introduce him to it slowly.  Don’t just dump your dog in or tie him.  An abrupt curtail in freedom is not what every dog would like, especially if the dog grew up being free to roam around the house.

4)  Your dog is in pain. A dog in pain will give a series of yelps.  It may be because his paw or tail got stuck on something, someone threw a stone or a stick at him, or he may be having some medical condition that needs attention… or your dog may be in labor.

1. Solution: immediately see what caused your dog to yelp.  Unstuck his paw or tail, and sooth him by rubbing him and giving comforting words.  You may want to put ice on the affected part to lessen the pain.  If there is no obvious cause and your dog is yelping, not eating, has labored breathing, bring him to the vet to see if there is a medical condition is causing a problem.  If your dog is recovering from a major operation, make sure you stick to the pain medication regimen to lessen his pain.

5)  Your dog wants to play. Low, short, repetitive barks will come from your dog whenever he has the desire to play with you.  Usually, your dog will bark this way when you get his leash, favorite toy, or Frisbee.

1. Solution: Always give your dog playtime, even for just 15-30 minutes a day.  Each dog, especially a puppy, would always want to have some physical activity to release some pent up energy.  Play time can be very good for dogs, especially when your dog has separation anxiety issues.  This can prevent your dog from getting bored and keep him from distracting you and your neighbors.

If your dog is still barking non-stop you can buy either a spray bottle or a citronella dog collar.  Whenever your barks spray him with the spray bottle set on squirt mode.  Don’t use a squirt gun, the point here is to get your dog’s attention and not play with or traumatize him.

Tell him why you had to use the squirt gun and tell him that one bark should be enough.  A citronella dog collar works on the same principle.  The collar has a sensor attached that monitors the vibration in your dog’s throat. Whenever your dog barks, the vibration will set off the collar and would spray a dose of citronella.  The odor is quite strong for your dog’s sensitive nose, and most dogs do not like the scent.

Try to line your garden with citronella plants and you’ll notice that your dog will not approach the side that has citronella in it.  Most dog owners prefer a citronella dog collar to other collars that deliver an electric shock to a dog.  Just remember that if your dog has separation anxiety, giving a dog collar while you’re away will not help his condition, but only make it worse.  Address your dog’s separation anxiety first before utilizing a dog collar for behavioral modification.

It can be very hard to train a dog to stop excessive barking.  But in time, coupled with patience and practice, your dog will become a well-behaved canine that is adored by your neighbors.

One particular instance when your dog would pee uncontrollably is during an exciting event such as you arriving home, having visitors over, a sudden loud noise, or whenever you and your dog are just having a good time.  This is called excited peeing.  Here are the steps that you can do to help lessen its occurrence.

1)  Whenever you get home, do not make such a fuss when you arrive.  Greet your dog with a pleasant “hello” and then keep your interaction low-key as much as possible.  Try ignoring your dog for 15 minutes then give him your full attention.

2)  If you’re having visitors over, you can pre-warn your dog by saying that some of your friends will arrive shortly.  You can also lessen your dog’s intake of water before your friends arrive.  The keyword here is lessen, not eliminate.  Dogs need water as much as you do, so make sure that you just limit the intake and not deprive him of it.

3)  Take your dog out for a walk before your friends come over.  Encourage him to urinate while outside, and do not go in while he hasn’t.

4)  Greet your friends outside with your dog.  When your dog urinates outside, tell him he’s a good dog for he urinated outside the house.  This way, your dog will get the idea that he should be doing the deed outside, and not inside the house.

5)  If your dog is small, then by all means hold him when your friends arrive.  This way, your dog will be reassured and be calm whenever strangers are around.

Submissive peeing, on the other hand, occurs when your dog is feeling threatened or dominated.  It is also due to your dog’s belief that he must be submissive enough to gain your approval.  To lessen this problem, the following tips can be employed.

1)  Whenever you arrive home, greet your dog pleasantly but without looking at him straight in the eye.  This is a show of dominance, and your dog will react by showing submissive behavior.

2)  Wait for him to be the one to approach.  When he does so, do not pat him on the head.  Rub him behind his ears or give him a little scratch beneath his chin.  You would be in a less-dominating position and your dog will get the idea that he does not need to become submissive to gain your affection.

3)  You can also greet him this way:  when he comes near, command him to sit, and shake.  When he performs the command correctly, praise him appropriately and also tell him he’s been a good dog for not peeing.

4)  Expose your dog to a lot of children or dogs.  Tell children not to pat or touch your dog when she rolls over.  Tell them to touch your dog only when she’s standing on all fours, or sitting down calmly.  This can also be told to your friends whenever they come over.

5)  If ever your dog pees whenever he is given attention, tell him softly and calmly in a normal tone of voice that you and he are going out for a walk.  When he pees outside, tell him that he’s being good and peeing is best done outside the house and not inside.

Do take into mind that excited and submissive peeing are not problems due to improper training, or because of lack or too much attention.  If you suspect a medical condition, consult a vet.

However, whenever you observe your dog doing such an act, do not scold or punish him.   Doing so will only make the condition worse and not resolve the issue.  All he needs is proper encouragement and a boost in self-confidence to overcome this behavior.

• Your dog may need to have a bath.  How many times a week do you bathe your dog?  If your dog is itchy or hot, he would relieve himself by licking his fur or skin.   This is the normal way dogs groom themselves, and the instinct will not disappear no matter how domesticated your dog would be.

• Your dog may be irritated by an allergen in the food, or something else in the environment.  You may have fed him a food that has eggs or seafood in it that did not go well with your dog’s skin.  Fleas between your dog’s paws may also be irritating your dog, as well as leaving some itchy marks on his body.

• Your dog is anxious.  This can be seen after a major relocation, or whenever you or a favorite person leaves the house.

• If your dog is excessively licking you or other people, this is a behavioral problem that comes from different reasons:
  • Your dog has been trained during puppyhood that excessive licking is acceptable.  Your child may be playing with your dog as a puppy and can be constantly delighted with the excessive licking the puppy is showering her.  When the dog grows old, that “learned” behavior is carried on and manifested when you come home from work, or when visitors drop by.
  • It is your dog’s way of showing affection.  Dogs are not able to communicate properly, so this behavior is their way of saying that he likes you, is delighted to see you, and he wants to play with you.

To stop the dog from licking, you have to address the issue.  Ensure that your dog is given proper hygiene.  See if your dog has some flea issues you have to take care of.  If your dog is licking himself and you or a favorite person after a period of lack of contact, you may want to do some separation anxiety management.

Make sure that you don’t make a big issue about coming and going the house.  Leave the house for 5 minutes and come back again without saying anything to your dog.  This would take some time, but it will do its trick once your dog gets used to it.

You can also correct his behavior by not noticing him when he licks you.  Train him that he will still get the attention that he wants without having to resort to heavy licking.  When he finally stops licking you, ignore him for a short while and then praise him for not licking you.

Train him to do some tricks, and give him rewards and praise when doing so.  Tell him firmly “NO!” when he jumps at you starts licking you.  Do not punish him for doing so.  Punishing will only cause more behavioral problems.  Remember that dogs respond better through positive encouragement, and as a responsible pet owner, you are in charge of producing a dog that has acceptable behavior.

There are two ways of praising a dog: giving treats and positive words of reinforcement.  These two when properly given will produce wonders in your dog’s behavior.  You will be able to uncover hidden talents and produce a dog that is disciplined and eager to please.

Each time you want a dog to perform a trick, speak the command clearly and distinctly.  Once your dog is able to do the trick, offer him a piece of treat like a piece of dog biscuit.  But there is a downside to constantly using this method.

Every time you give your dog a treat each time he would do as you command, he would be conditioned to expect a biscuit as a reward.  Once you stop giving him treats, he would also soon realize that it would be pointless to do as you command.

In order to maintain acceptable dog behavior, alternate between verbal encouragement and treats.  Each time he does something that you tell him to, go down to his level and say “You’re a good dog, Buddy.”  It’s important that you state your dog’s name as would foster good master-dog relationship and encourage self-worth for your dog.  Bear in mind that dogs are pack animals.

You’re seen as a leader of the pack, and he looks up to you and hangs on to your every word and gesture.   There is not a single thing that you do that is not important to him.  Give him a good pat on his back, or scratch behind his ears each time he exhibits good behavior.

You can also reward your dog by letting him do his favorite activity whenever he behaves favorably.  Say for example he did his best in behaving like the perfect dog even with a room full of rowdy people.

When the guests have gone, go down on all fours and say “Good job, Buddy, you did not bark the whole time my friends were here.” Then go out and have a round of Frisbee or for a walk around the block.  You can also go at the backyard and play with him for 10 minutes or more.

Always be prompt when giving praise or reward to your dog.  A dog that adores his master will always be willing to do everything to gain approval.  Remember to keep a pleasant tone of voice, smile, and be sincere with your praises.  Each time you praise your dog, you will condition him to always be at his best, and still be happy with what he does.

• Warning bark: you will hear a low grow emanating from your dog’s throat, followed by a growl that escalates in volume and intensity.  Your dog will also exhibit some other signs such as raised hackles, an aggressive stance, and also a tail that is somewhat low but not quite between his legs.  This usually indicates the presence of a potential threat either to his territory or to your safety.  This is often heard when a stranger approaches, or when another dog is seen entering the yard.  If your dog gave birth just recently, expect to hear this growl whenever you approach her in the first 24-48 hours.

• Alarming bark: This type of bark is characterized by short, abrupt barks.  Your dog will bark this way whenever your dog hears a car parking nearby, or whenever the doorbell rings.  An intelligent dog will alert you this way when there’s an impending danger such as smoke from a burning dinner or fire from a sparkling electrical wire.

• Give-me-your-attention bark: when a dog barks incessantly, accompanied occasionally by a howl.  This happens when a highly sociable dog is left alone for a long time without any company.

• Yelp: a series of yelps is your dog’s way of saying he is feeling something painful.  It can be a paw stuck between the flooring of his kennel, or a tail that has been stepped on, or a serious medical condition that needs to be seen immediately.  Your dog may also yelp if he’s been painfully hit either with a stick or from a thrown stone by a naughty neighborhood kid.

• Happy/excited bark: your dog will give short, low pitched, repetitive barking whenever your dog sees you getting his collar, a Frisbee, or a favorite toy.  Or, he may bark this way on his own and continually go around in circles by the door so you can play with him.  He may also do this as a way of saying “welcome home” when you have been gone away for quite some time.

Take the time to observe the way your dog barks, and note what kind of circumstance has led to this manner of barking.  Learning the reason for your dog’s bark will enable to help you do some behavioral modification if you are experiencing some dog barking problems.  Address each situation accordingly so your dog will be trained to stop barking.

They also multiply quite rapidly, and would eventually overwhelm your dog.  Your once perky little playmate will become this quiet, forlorn, and weak little thing that you can barely distinguish from its original self.

Common Types of Parasitic Worms on Dogs

To understand how worms affect your dog and how to eliminate them, you must know the common helminthes (parasitic worms) that infest your dogs.

Round worms

These worms are transmitted on your dog from the mother.  They are transmitted during their gestational period in their mother’s womb, through breast milk, or through contaminated feces.  If your dog is flea-infested, chances are he would also have an infestation of roundworms.  These worms stay in your dog’s intestine and feed over the digested contents.  They can grow for as long as 4 inches, and being voracious and proliferative as they are, your dog will manifest the following signs and symptoms:

• Failure to thrive or malnourished
• Dull coat even with the use of special shampoo
• Lethargy
• Diarrhea and/or vomiting.

Do note that sometimes, your dog will not show any signs of worm infestation.  In severe cases, cysts filled with larvae will be formed because they have migrated outside of your dog’s intestinal tract and into some body parts, particularly muscles.  It is important to treat your dog of roundworms for they also infect humans.

Tapeworms

They are called as such for they resemble a flat ribbon, growing as much as 24 inches in length.  The segments are just filled with eggs, and the worm propagates whenever the segments break off.  What’s curious about tapeworms is that in order to be transmitted, they need to have a different intermediate host like a flea before it hatches.

Your dog will then ingest the host, and the larvae will continue to develop inside your dog’s digestive tract.  These tapeworms feed on your dog by sticking itself to your dog’s intestinal wall, thereby sucking your dog’s blood.  Tapeworm infection is manifested by:

• Anemia
• Lethargy
• Lack of appetite
• Dull coat

Tapeworm is most commonly seen in adult animals in comparison to young, immature ones.  The eggs can remain dormant for up to a year if it does not find an intermediate host.  Humans can be infected by these worms from salad greens that have been improperly washed, and they can do some damage by forming larval cysts in the lungs, liver, and even the brain.

Whipworm/Hookworms

Compared to the previously stated types of worms, whipworms/hookworms are less common.  Another peculiar fact about this type of worm does not infect the dog via fecal-oral route.  The worm infects your dog by penetrating the thick soles of his feet, causing some tender, oftentimes painful lesions.  Other manifestations include:

• Severe weight loss due to diarrhea
• Blood loss
• Dehydration
• And in puppies:
  • Blood tinged diarrhea
  • Anemia
  • Weight loss
  • Lethargy

Your dog may or may not manifest these signs and symptoms in any type of intestinal parasitic infection.  In heavy infestations, they show other symptoms such as:

• Distended, pot-bellied stomach
• Pneumonia
• “Scooting” – dogs scratching their irritated anus by sitting on the ground and dragging himself.

In other cases, you may even notice flat, whitish, translucent segments around the size of a rice grain on your dog’s bedding or stool.  It is important to note that worms at the egg and larvae stage manifest no symptoms.  When the infestation is already between moderate to severe, your dog will start having problems and also begin showing the different signs and symptoms stated.

Prevention and Cure

There is no definite way to prevent your dog from getting worms. But you can safely cure your dog using several medications recommended by your vet.  Remember that these stated medications are only bought with the prescription of your vet.

1)  Drontal Plus (Praziquantel) – this is a broad-spectrum medication that fights common dog worms such as roundworm, tapeworm, and hookworm but are safe for puppies as young as 3 weeks, and roughly 2lbs.  It is important to take this drug according to the vet’s order, and you must raise some questions if you are confused over the treatment regimen.  The dose can be given with food, and there is no need for a period of fasting when giving the medication.

You must note that Drontal Plus has some side effects such as vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite.  If you notice some other unusual manifestations from the ones stated above, contact your veterinarian immediately.

2)  Iterceptor Flavor Tabs: these tablets are given once a month.  Its anti-helminthic property eliminates heartworm larvae and adult hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm.  It can be given to dogs as young as 4 weeks.  Side effects include drowsiness, vomiting, diarrhea, hypersalivation, seizures, and weakness.

These parasites can cause some major health problems in dogs, and can even lead to death if left untreated.  Make sure that you always bring your dog to the vet regularly so you can know immediately when your dog has intestinal parasites.

If you are buying a puppy, make sure that the breeder is regularly deworming the puppy starting at 2 weeks of life.  This way, you will be sure that your puppy will not have that much problems when it comes to worms. You also must maintain your dog’s health by continuing with the deworming regimen.

This condition is known as Coprophagy is a condition when a dog is somewhat fixated with eating its own or other animal’s feces.  No breed is spared from this behavior; may your dog be a mongrel or a Labrador, or a greyhound, your dog will still experience the need of eating its own poop.

Causes:

No one knows exactly what causes the condition; some say it’s a phase, some say it’s an acquired behavior.  Some specific causes could be:

• Stress and anxiety: most dogs that have been mistreated often eat their own feces.  This behavior is most seen on dogs that came from unsavory animal shelters and cruel owners.  However, if you have recently moved to a new neighborhood without helping your dog adjust, you may see some poop eating around the corner.

• Pregnancy or a dog in heat: It’s a natural instinct for animals in the wild to mask their own scent just to make sure their brood is safe.  A pregnant or a dog at heat might eat its poop in order to mask her scent in fear of being found by other wild animals that may eventually attack on her once they sense her weakness.  Mothers are often found eating the feces of their pups, and it can be due to the same reason, for from the simple need of just keeping the den clean.  Or, if you would closely observe the interaction between a mother dog and a newborn puppy, you will often notice that the puppies only poop or urinate when their abdomens and genitals are stimulated by their mom’s tongue.

• Puppy curiosity: just like human toddlers, puppies also have its own sense of adventure and wonderment.  Researchers postulate that puppies may be eating their poop just out of curiosity.  That curiosity may be due to a primitive memory of their mother eating their poop, we won’t exactly know.  Others say that the puppies instinctively eat their own poop in search for the proper nutritional requirement that they would need for them to grow.

• Improper Discipline: If during your dog’s puppyhood days you scold him excessively and punish him harshly whenever he poops, he will establish an undesirable behavior when it comes to poop.  He would be conditioned that whenever he poops he would be hurt again, so he “cleans after himself” by eating his own poop.

• Nutritional Imbalance: it has been lead to believe that dogs deficient B₁₂ or K “seek” for this nutritional requirement in feces.

Management:

Whatever the cause, you still need to help your dog get out of the nasty habit.  If you think that your dog is having some nutritional imbalance, ask your vet for what food to give to your dog.  Red meat can be the right food to give to your dog to address this problem.

You can also ask for some vitamin supplements that can help your dog stop eating poop.  Buy your dog a brand of dog food that is digested easily but leaves very little residue for poop.

You may love feeding your dog, but make sure you do not overfeed.  Too much food will just give your dog indigestion.  The resultant poop may still have some bits of whole food in it, and your dog will be quite delighted in eating his food all over again.

You can also do some behavioral modification on your dog by training him that eating poop is not a desirable course of action.  Get a good pair of disposable gloves and a plastic bag.  Go with him whenever he does the deed, and show to him that you’re cleaning up after him.

Tell him that poop is not made to be eaten while you’re placing the poop in the plastic bag and disposing it in a garbage bin.  Just make sure that the garbage bin is fully secured lest he takes it in his mind to go after it.  Aside from that, you can tug your dog’s leash while he’s smelling his own poop, and firmly tell him “NO.”

Some advocate the use of an additive that can make a dog’s poop quite unappetizing. You can use pepper powder or pepper sauce, or some commercially prepared concoction that you can use to pour over the poop to deter the dog from eating it.  You can try one of these products and see which one would do the job.

• Four Paws Potty Mouth – Coprophagia Treatment ($5.09):  This comes in a chewable tablet that is given in a dose of 1 tablet/10kg of body weight.  This is given every day in a span of 2 weeks.  It has brewer’s yeast and Cayenne that can certainly make the taste of your dog’s poop quite undesirable.  Aside from that, it contains vitamin B₁, B₂, and B₁₂, Iron and Copper; all of the important vitamins and minerals that your dog needs to help him stop eating fecal matter. Comes in a bottle of 60 tablets.

• 8-in1 Deter – Coprophagia treatment ($5.09): prides itself as 98% effective in deterring your dog from eating his own poop.  Comes in a bottle of 60 tablets.

There are a lot of commercially-available poop deterrent that can help your dog stop from poop eating.  Your dog is at high risk from contracting parasitic infections that came from the poop of other dogs and animals.  Behavioral modification can be hard, but it would only take hard work and dedication to eventually stop your dog from coprophagia.

Bear in mind that you must restrain yourself from physically punishing your dog.  Physical punishment only makes matters worse, and will not resolve the issue of poop eating.  Praising your dog whenever he follows your command of not eating his poop, as well as constantly and consistently guiding him from such an act can eventually help your dog get over poop eating.

Shoes, bags, toys and furniture are chewed to pieces.  Not only that, your dog constantly jumps on the dinner table, either begging for scraps or taking the food from your plate.  Your dog definitely needs to be disciplined.

It would be best to discipline your dog whenever you caught him in the act of doing something unpleasant.  If you see your dog stalking your favorite pair of shoes, tell him right there and then “NO.”  Not that soft, sweet, mellow tone of voice.  He will not respond to it in a way that you want him to be. A firm, louder and slightly harder than normal tone must be used for him to know that you mean business.

If it has been done, you must reprimand your dog, and you must also explain why he should have not done so.  You will say you’re treating the dog like an errant kid; well that’s precisely the idea.  A dog is just like a kid who does not know his boundaries and you must be authoritative enough to set him straight.

If your canine is into the habit of rummaging your garbage whenever you’re gone, that may mean two things: boredom and hunger.  There are several ways to address this.  You can buy a dog food dispenser that you can train your dog to access food whenever he wants it.  Or, before leaving, give him a hearty meal that can last for a whole day.

To address boredom, give him toys that he can gnaw and chew to his heart’s content.  If that still does not solve the issue, then get into the habit of taking out the trash before you leave, or buy a container that can seal your trash securely until you come home.

If you cannot afford such a container, pet stores have something that you can spray on your trash.  The spray is non toxic but with a taste that is absolutely detested by dogs.  Once your dog gets a taste of it, he will always associate garbage to that taste and will leave your garbage alone.

If your dog has a habit of jumping on the table for food you can start training him by telling all your family members (and yes, that includes you) not to encourage the behavior.  Avoid giving him table scraps whenever he’s near the table.

If it’s time for dinner, give him his plate outside.  Close the kitchen door when you’re preparing dinner and say clearly to your dog that he’s not allowed inside the kitchen and he should behave.

You can produce a learned behavior by placing a delicious piece of morsel at the center of the table and lining the table with a loose cloth filled with a lot of lightweight, safe, yet noisy items.  When your dog leaps on the table, he can cause the cloth to slide off along with the noisy items.

This can startle the dog and he would definitely not want to experience that event again.  If you don’t have a table-lining, have the family hide behind the kitchen door with pots and lids as well as ladles.

When he pounces, create such a racket that would surprise your dog.  Just make sure you won’t be seen.  And do not go after your dog to console him.  That would totally eradicate the whole point of the procedure and your dog will do it again.

However, this type of situation is only fit for confident and self-assured dogs.  If your dog is not behaving the way a normal dog should (i.e. being very submissive or very aggressive), ask a dog trainer what controlled situation would be appropriate to produce a learned behavior.

Whenever you correct your dog’s behavior, you must not use physical violence.  Beating or hitting a dog can turn your loving, trusting, and loyal companion into a dog that is mistrustful, frightened, and at worse, aggressive.

Your confident and exuberant canine will become a dog that does not interact, has low self-esteem, and avoid any human contact in any way it can.  And that means biting and attacking the very person that he used to love and adore.  Whenever you physically hurt a dog, he will be conditioned into thinking that a raised hand and a raised voice would equate to getting hurt.

In turn, whenever your children or anybody else walk towards him and play, an innocent gesture will be perceived as a threat.  This would instinctively command your dog to protect himself and act out aggressively to the nearest target.

Consistency and patience is the key to properly disciplining your dog.  And just like children, dogs respond more to positive reinforcements like rewards or praise whenever they are doing something right.

If your dog responded appropriately to your command, keep it in mind to lavish him with praise and give him a doggie treat.  Doing the same thing over and over again whenever your dog misbehaves will eventually train your dog to behave and cease wreaking havoc on your home.

Some dogs will even have a self-satisfied grin that they would not exactly hide when you scold them.  Apparently, it’s not something they perceive as a mischievous act, but something that they do normally and enjoy.

Fact is, digging is a natural instinct of dogs.  A dog that is about to give birth or a dog that is hot will dig the ground to provide them privacy and comfort.  A freshly dug ground can be quite cool and cozy for a distressed or hot dog.

If your dog is feeling too hot, you can give him a bath, or give him a wading pool to cool himself down whenever he wants to.  Place his dog house under a shade and as much as possible facing the east.  This way, he can be free from the direct rays of the sun around the afternoon.

It may be that your dog is scared of something, and this can happen when you’re near a place where wild life can come in any moment.  Your dog may be digging up a hole where he can hide himself so he won’t be seen by the very thing that he’s scared of.  Check to see if there are any wild life in your area that can be at risk for your dog.

Sometimes, a timid dog may also be afraid of a cruel owner, and it would dig a hole as a place of solace whenever a beating has happened.  Give your dog the comfort and reassurance that he needs so he would not need to bury himself inside that hole.

Is there a pattern that you observe on your dog’s digging habits?  Is he digging in just one area in the garden?  He’s so fixated in just one area that he was able to dig a hole that hides him up to half of his body.  What you can do is fill up that hole and have a designated digging area by giving him a digging box.

Place a favorite toy in that digging box and encourage your dog to dig in it whenever you see him getting ready to do so in his favorite spot.  You can fill the box with all sorts of things like food or a squeaky toy.

Show him what to do by going on all fours and digging yourself.  Praise him whenever he digs, and share his delight when he finds his treat.  If he goes back to his digging place, go and fetch him then bring him back to his digging box.  Keep it interesting by placing the treats in layers.  Place some at the surface to first train him that something is there.

Stimulate his curiosity further by placing another layer of items in the middle.  Give him a sense of accomplishment by placing a final and special toy or treat at the bottom.  Maintain that digging box by turning the earth with a shovel at the end of the day and burying a new treat beneath it when the dog is already asleep.

If the hole is made beneath a fence, the hole may also have been made by your dog due to separation anxiety, and they release their anxiety by digging a hole that they feel they can go.  They also feel that if they have dug a hole big enough, they will be able to escape and go to where you are.

If you and your family have been spending so much time outside because of certain activities, your dog may feel quite lonesome.  The activity outside may have caught the curiosity and interest of your dog that he would want to go outside of the fence in order to partake with the enjoyment.

To solve this entertain your dog by playing with him every now and then.  Play fetch, chase him around the garden, do some other activities that will help him vent out all his excess energy.  As much as possible have someone to keep him company for a long period of time just to tire him out.

Another way to stop this is to have your fence go as deep as 12 inches beneath the surface.  Your dog will get the message that he would be unable to escape and cease his digging.

Regardless of the reason, you can also turn on the sprinkler system whenever he’s digging a hole.  Place the sprinkler near his favorite area and turn it on whenever he starts digging.  Eventually he will get the idea that he will be sprayed whenever he digs, so he will stop doing so eventually.

Just make sure that you won’t be seen so he will still think that the whole thing is happening even if you’re not around.  If your dog still cannot be stopped from digging, put on a good pair of disposable gloves and place his own feces inside the hole that he’s made.  Even if you cover the hole, he will still be able to smell his own dump, and be repelled by it.

You must use his very own poop, otherwise, it won’t work. Others go further by lining the entire garden area with chicken wire.  After doing so, the area is covered with several inches of soil.  Whenever and wherever a dog digs, he will always encounter that very uncomfortable and highly irritating chicken wire so he would stop all efforts to dig.

Others sprinkle on a good amount of cayenne pepper inside the holes previously dug by their dogs and cover them up.  When the dog digs in it, his nose will have quite a stinging from the pepper and will not dig again.

Remember that physical punishment is not the answer to correcting undesirable dog behavior.  Your dog will only learn not to dig in your presence and will resume doing so when you’re not around.  Reprimand your dog verbally whenever he starts digging and praise him when he stops.  Pet him and give him treats whenever he digs in his own digging box, and he will retain the good behavior.

It may take time to train your dog to stop digging, so just be patient.  Eventually, he will get the idea and leave the garden alone.  A dog that cannot be stopped from digging may need some professional assistance.  Bring him to the vet if the digging is suspected to come from a deeper problem.

This is a common problem for dog owners whenever they leave for work.  Sometimes the owner gets so upset over the dog that it leads to giving the dog away either to other friends and family or to a dog shelter.

What exactly is separation anxiety for a dog?

Every dog article that you would read will always tell you constantly that a dog is a pack animal.  A dog with a high sense of dominancy will think of you as a part of the pack that he needs to protect.  The moment you’re gone from his sight, he would think all sorts of things with regards to your safety and whereabouts.

Eventually, your dog will be so overwhelmed with anxiety; he would eventually explode and unleash his pent-up emotions on furniture, doors, windows, and the garden.  And you will find that the most destroyed items in your home would be the ones you always use and come in contact with.  Your favorite shoes, favorite socks, favorite chair, all will be in shambles by the time you get home.  You may even find some dog poop in your shoes or anywhere in the house, and be horrified to know he has relieved himself on your expensive carpet.

What causes it?

Separation anxiety can be caused by a lot of things.  One could be genetic predisposition.  If your dog came from a breed that is known to exhibit separation anxiety, chances are your dog will also be doing the same thing.  A traumatic event that has happened while you’re away like a severe thunderstorm, earthquake, or robbery, can cause your dog to be fearful of your absence.

It can also be caused by any change from the normal daily routines that your dog has grown accustomed to.  Your dog may have grown used to your constant presence because you were on a vacation, then suddenly have to cope with you leaving for work when your vacation has ended. Or it can be an addition of a new family member such as a baby who takes away the attention from him.

And even though your dog does not usually exhibit separation anxiety, he will manifest the condition if he has been left to the vet or kennel for a long time.  A rescued dog from an animal shelter is also the biggest candidate for separation anxiety.

How will I know if my dog has separation anxiety?

These behaviors are commonly noted on dogs that suffer from the said condition.

1)  Your dog engages in wild behavior before you leave and after you come home from work.  This would include whining, clawing on doors, leaping at you to prevent you from leaving, biting your trousers and dragging you back to your house.  Some dogs tense up and even shake when they see that you’re preparing to leave.  When you get home, you will observe exuberant behavior such as leaping or pouncing, excessive barking, and licking.

2)  Your neighbors will say that they can hear your dog whining and howling nonstop the moment you’re gone.

3)  You will notice that your dog will also cry, refuse to eat, or drool excessively as well as refuse to eat.

4)  Severe cases can manifest vomiting and or diarrhea; escaping through windows or screen doors regardless of any injuries your dog may suffer from.  Self-mutilation may be seen in bleeding paws and other body parts such as the mouth.

How will I know if it’s really separation anxiety?

Some asks if those manifestations are indeed signs of separation anxiety and not some deeper problems that their dog is suffering from.  For one thing, check to see if your dog is healthy.

See if you’re giving him the right balance of protein in his diet.  The usual and distinctive characteristic that distinguishes separation anxiety from behavioral disorders is simply the manifestation of inappropriate behavior while you’re gone.

Is there a way to cure or help my dog?

Some pet owners scold and punish their dogs whenever they go home and find destroyed items in their home.  This is not the appropriate approach, for this would only result in a more depressed dog.  He is already upset that you left him, and scolding or physically harming your dog due to bad behavior that is mostly due to missing you will only make him more upset and disturbed.

This will only aggravate your dog’s condition, and can even result in a dangerous or permanent conduct disorder.  You have to help your dog get used to your absence by slowly and patiently desensitizing him of your routine.

1)  During your off days, stay with your dog in the living room.  While you two are together, leave through the front door and stay out for just about 20 seconds or so.  You have to get back before he starts to whine and not when he does so.

The principle of this exercise is have him accept your absence without suffering from distress. Do this every once in a while in varying intervals and duration.  It would be best to do this straight for 2 or 3 days.  Gradually increase your “absence” by 30 seconds, 1 minute, 3 minutes, 5, until you get to 10.  Eventually, the next day you will be able to stay away for a maximum of 30 minutes or so.

2)  Take notice of your ritual before you leave.  Do your ritual even though you’re not leaving.

• Get your car keys while you’re within sight of your dog and let it create a sound by playing with it.  Carry it around for several minutes then return it back to the key holder.

• It may be uncomfortable, but you may have to sit in front of the TV wearing your coat or blazer.  Eventually, he will get used to the coat and not associate it with your impeding departure.

3)  If you’re leaving by the front door, try leaving through the back door or kitchen door if you have.  That very door that you always access to leave the house is already associated with hours of loneliness.  Every single time you go near that door, your dog knows you’re leaving.  Remove that association so the next time you leave through that door, he would not stop you from leaving.

4)  If you can stand some dog smell in your homely clothes, leave a couple of shirts behind and let him play with it while you’re gone.  At least his attention will be fixed on your clothes and not on your furniture or your favorite pair of shoes.

5)  Before you leave, engage your dog in a variety of physical activities.  Jog with your dog in the morning around the neighborhood.  This activity will enable your dog to use any pent-up energy that he may use against your furniture the moment you leave for the office.  Give him ample food and drink that has enough nutrients to sustain him for the day but not necessarily stimulate him.

6)  It is important to tell your dog that you are leaving and for how long you will be away.  This helps you prepare your dog and yourself for what is going to happen the moment you do.  Make leaving boring and swift.  Do not look back when your dog whines or howls or scratch at the door or windows.   When you get home, ignore his exuberant behavior.

You may miss him as well and be delighted over his display of affection, but remember that you are helping your dog to be self-reliant.  Ignore him for 5-10 minutes and only give him the attention that he needs when he’s calm.  Keep it in mind to praise him when you notice that he has calmed himself and tell him that you prefer his behavior that way.

7)  You can buy a crate so that your dog will have its own den to comfort himself while you’re gone, but some say it does not cure your dog of separation anxiety.  A new companion may also be an option, but a new dog will not always be the right answer especially if you have a breed that has problems with separation anxiety.

8)  You may use medications that your vet prescribes, but that should be the very, very, very last option for you to consider.  For these medications to take effect, you must stick to its regimen every day and never skip a dose.  If you forgot to give the prescribed dose, give it the moment you remember.  If you discontinued the medication abruptly, or have forgotten or neglected to give the dose for a few days, it may cause an ever more uncontrollable behavior.

Take into account that helping your dog recover from separation anxiety is a long, tedious, and time-consuming process.  Never stray from your behavioral modification regimen and always remember to praise your dog whenever he is able to stand being alone or being without your presence.

That is because there seems to be stages within stages. I believe it will all make sense after you have completed the document.

BIRTH – ABOUT 12-14 DAYS

The gestation period of dogs is approximately 60 days. When the puppies arrive their eyes and ears are sealed shut. With no sight or hearing their strongest sense is that of touch.

The newborn puppies have to be kept warm – they will stay close to their mother and littermates. Their nervous system is not fully developed.

ABOUT 2 WEEKS

The eyes open but the puppies cannot see well – may be sensitive to bright lights.

BETWEEN 13 – 14 AND 20 DAYS

The puppies are beginning to hear and respond to taste and smell. Puppies are crawling and even walking with a wobbly gait. Exploration of surroundings is beginning. The puppies are becoming increasing alert.

3 – 5 WEEKS

The puppies begin learning dog-like behaviors and body posturing. They will begin biting, barking, and even chasing. The puppies begin to respond to people as there is a rapid sensory development.

The submissive posture may be learned as the puppies are disciplined by their mother. The puppies are accepting the mother as pack leader and they are learning basic dog manners.

Pack hierarchy is developed through play. The puppies enjoy wrestling with littermates.

ABOUT 7 WEEKS

The puppies should be completely weaned by this time. This is a rapid learning period. Socialization is essential during this stage and the puppies should be handled daily. Socialization includes people and littermates/other dogs.

8 – 12 WEEKS

It is during this time that most puppies move to their new and permanent home. Any traumatic experience at this time can affect the dog for the rest of his/her life.

All training sessions should be short and they should be set up to allow the puppy to succeed. A physical or psychological trauma or upset may result in the puppy developing an avoidance response.

An important issue is that of having a puppy-proof environment before the puppy comes home. Keep in mind the low level that your puppy will see the world from. Most homes have some dangerous items within the reach of a small puppy.

Things to consider include electrical cords and even in some cases, drapery cords. If there are children in the home there may be small toys in the floor. Not only can a puppy destroy some toys they may be harmed by ingesting or choking on the items.

Many plants are poisonous – it is wise to move any plant you are not sure of to a place the puppy cannot access. Household cleaners can be fatal to your puppy – always be sure they are out of reach. The same is true of medications. Just as with a baby, your puppy’s safety may be enhanced via the use of baby gates – and you will rest easier!

Preparation for your new puppy should also include gathering needed accessories. A dog crate/kennel will be useful for housebreaking and traveling. Additionally, the crate can be your puppy’s home within your home. Dogs in the wild use dens as homes. Believe it or not your little pet will enjoy having a den of his/her own.

You will need two bowls, one for food and one for water. Insure that the bowls are size appropriate. You may find that you need to buy a larger size as your baby grows.

When it comes to food you should at least start with whatever food your puppy was being fed before you brought him/her home. If you decide to change the food be sure to do so slowly. Begin by mixing about ¼ new food to ¾ of the older food. Feed that mixture for about 4 – 7 days before adding even more of the new food. Once again, feed the new mixture for a period of time before making the complete switch.

Having a pre-arranged veterinarian appointment is a good idea. In fact, the sooner you can get a well-puppy check up the better.

You may also want to enroll your puppy in some training/obedience classes. Checking out the schools, trainers and class options before bringing your puppy home can be an advantage.

Joining memberships or simply purchasing books about dogs can mean the difference between a wonderful relationship with your new pet or you looking for a new home for a dog that doesn’t seem to fit!

Every dog needs toys. Be sure that you buy size appropriate toys. As time goes on you will discover what type of toy your special dog prefers. Some dogs prefer anything they can fetch and others enjoy toys that squeak.

A leash will be very useful. While training your puppy a 6 foot long nylon leash and a harness will be helpful. Speaking of training – don’t forget the treats!

3 – 7 MONTHS

During this time your little fur ball is likely to demonstrate extreme bursts of energy followed with nap time. He/she will probably enjoy rough play. It is during this time that puppies lose their milk teeth – therefore dental care should be started.

To assist with this task be sure to provide hard chew treats and toys that your puppy enjoys chewing on. You may need to practice the trading technique – as in you trade your appropriate chew toy for whatever inappropriate item your puppy finds.

4 – 8 MONTHS

This can be a challenging period – especially for unprepared owners. It is important to understand that your pet is going through physical as well as psychological changes. Try to be patient and understanding – even when your Fur-baby decides to test his/her limits. Be in control and assert your dominance but never resort to physical discipline.

8 – 18 MONTHS

The high energy continues and sometimes even increases. This period is considered adolescence and just like humans, dogs may become rebellious in some ways. Your puppy may become territorial and aggressive and/or protective.

Once again, the owner needs to practice patience, and persistence. The males will begin lifting a leg and the female will experience her first heat.

10 – 16 MONTHS

Your little dog needs structure and leadership. This helps the dog feel secure and safe. By establishing yourself as the pack leader and demonstrating that you are in control your puppy will be much more comfortable. After all, the real responsibilities are on the pack leader not the young dog. You are the one that is responsible for food and shelter – the basic comforts of life.

During this stage it is important to keep in mind that your dog needs to know that you are in control. Don’t fall into a downward spiral of an escalation of acceptance of those little behaviors that may become increasingly annoying as your puppy ages.

18 – 36 MONTHS

By now your puppy will have become a young adult. As he/she settles into adulthood a routine should be established. There should be a schedule that is routine. This includes things like eating time, rest time, play time and even bed time.

1 – 4 YEARS

Your little dog is sexually mature and is out of the rowdiness of adolescence. He/she is perfectly content to be your companion.

7 YEARS & BEYOND

Your dog is now moving into the senior years. He/she will be laid back and calm. A day spent sleeping beside you is appreciated as much as a day outdoors.

Some people simply want a cute loveable pup that is happy and healthy. Whether the bloodline is pure does not matter in the least. But for others, only a pure breed dog will do. These people often want show dogs or even plan to breed dogs themselves.

But how can you best insure that they will be healthy and from a good bloodline. The best way is to buy from a breeder that has a good reputation. Knowing which breeders are ethical and breed with integrity is not always easy. How will you know if they have been treated the way you would want your new puppy to be treated?

One of the first steps should be visiting the website (if one is available) of the prospective breeder. Expect to find descriptions of the type of home-raising the dogs get. Ideally the puppy will be raised in the home around people. Some websites actually have photos available of the environment the dogs are raised in. Socialization of dogs should begin as soon as possible.

Learn all you can about the breeder: how long they have been breeding, or if new to the process, how they are learning. An ethical breeder will be happy to talk with you about some of these basic things, but you should also expect to be questioned.

The best breeders are very selective about where their puppies go to live. Some do checks to insure that the puppies will have a nice home and that you are who you say you are. This is one way to insure the puppies are not going to a pet shop or going to be resold.

Never purchase a puppy from a pet shop because you cannot be sure of anything about the puppy. Although the pup may be registered that is not a guarantee of the quality of the dog.

Puppy farms should also be avoided. You can recognize a puppy farm by offers of several breeds of dogs. Breeding is obviously a primary source of income and little regard is given to the dogs themselves.

When you go to get your puppy you should meet with the breeder, the person that has raised the puppies. This provides you with an opportunity to see how the puppies are kept and how they interact with littermates as well as the adult dogs.

Ideally puppies should not be sold before they are 8 weeks old. If a breeder is willing to sell puppies younger than 8 weeks you can be sure they have less than high standards regarding the well-being of the babies.

Reputable breeders are willing to discuss the dog’s ancestry and all medical history, including any genetic screening, vaccinations given and de-worming. Furthermore, reputable breeders are available to answer questions at the time of purchase and in the future.  These breeders will have the parents (or at least the mother dog) available for you to see.

And many of the best breeders will supply new dog parents with instructions and a welcome package. These packages often include a blanket or toy that has been used by the momma dog and the littermates as well as a starter pack of the food the puppy has been eating.

If you get the feeling that the money is more important to the breeder than knowing where the puppy is going and how you plan to care for it – leave. By purchasing from such breeders the cycle is perpetual. They will continue to breed and sell puppies for as long they can find buyers.

Don’t get me wrong, owning a dog is rewarding, but you have to have the maturity and the sense of responsibility to take care of a dog along with all its pleasure.

Go and visit an animal shelter and it will be an overwhelming emotional experience for any animal lover. You just want to take them all out of the pens and take them all home. But do you understand the consequences of what is about to happen if you do get one?

Why are there so many dogs in the shelter?  Dogs that weren't either spayed or neutered are the biggest cause of this dilemma. Some were mistreated and abused, while some were left alone for long periods of time and then some were never housetrained. So before seriously considering on adopting a dog from the animal shelter, please read the following:

1. Since some dogs were mistreated and abused by previous owners, expect a not so successful cooperation from your new pet. Some will even shy away if you raise your voices or they suddenly hear a loud noise.  Just be patient and softly talk to them with affection. You should also avoid sudden movements that may remind them of past abuse.

2.  Dogs are intelligent beings but they might not respond right away to any soft voice commands you give them. Just give it time; they need to adjust to their loving surroundings.

3. Once you gain their trust, they will most likely reward you with more affection and loyalty than you ever imagined.

4. Behavioral problems of all sorts are the biggest dilemma you will face with dogs adopted from shelters - which includes everything from jumping over fences, digging holes in the backyard to even rummaging thru all your stuff at home and possibly chewing it up. A gentle yet firm reminder will usually help in preventing this – but in some cases a complete training regimen is required.

Just remember to be patient in every dealing you have with your pet. House training them slowly till they get comfortable in the zone they are in.  Make a conscious effort to know and love your dog for whatever imperfections they may still have. Dogs are like humans, they all have their own little personality quirks that make them unique – we just have to love them for who they are!

Adopting pets from a shelter is not for kids - these dogs may tend to be too aggressive with children or simply afraid of them. But if you do, just take special care to insure that your new pet and your child are introduced slowly and properly.

Always keep a close watch for any misbehavior from either the dog or the child when they are together – especially during the first month or so. It may take them time to bond sufficiently so as to insure safety for both the pet and the child.

You can classify dog supplies and essentials as:

1. Basic. They include dog collars, grooming supplies, beds, kennels and of course food.

2. Functional. Gates, doors and fences to keep them at safe and sometimes, to keep them away from a particular area or location.

3. Pampering. Dog treats, toys and oils for massages.

Dog beds are an essential for they keep the bones and joints healthy. Some collars can be basic but some with come device implants to train dogs to behave in a manner the dog owner wants.

Dog houses come in different shapes and sizes that include both plastic and wood. They should be roomy enough for the dog to move freely about and strong enough to provide long term shelter.  Shampoos, conditioners, nail clippers, brushes and combs with some specific supplies for a dog’s hygiene must be provided as well.

Owning a dog requires a lot of maintenance because you are responsible for a living creature that gives love and affection in return. Different breeds of dogs do require different supplies that are best suited for what is essential for them.

For instance, an indoor dog certainly needs more indoor supplies than a dog that spends a great deal of time outdoors. And some breeds have particular grooming needs that others do not.

Dogs are playful by nature so they need toys to play and run around with to keep them healthy. Let them run with their toys because this is exercise for them which will help build a healthy heart and stronger muscles.

There are 3 types of dog food on the market but you just have to look beyond commercialism and go to the vet for proper guidance on what to feed your dog.  You can even research online for the next best possible dietary program you can put your dog under to help prevent diseases that may come up if you either overfeed or underfeed your dog.

1. Moist food.

2. Dry food.

3. Semi-moist food.

It can be overwhelming to pick the right food type for your pet but it’s often wise to choose a premium type over generic ones because some generic dog food has a lot of animal by-products added into them. This can result in the food causing complications in the long run. Premium dog food contains the extra vitamins and minerals necessary for growth.

Dog food should have the right ratios of protein, carbohydrates and fats but this is still dependent on the dog’s age. Make sure to check the label as well for any signs of old stock.

Just give your dogs the best loving and attention that they need and that love will be returned tenfold.

Puppies can be compared to babies that if they have been breastfed by the mother dog, they have been getting nutrition from the mother's milk but, they require more continuous protection from germs and diseases.

Once the puppies reach 8 weeks old, they take their first set of vaccines and then 4 weeks later, the 2nd set or booster shots are given. When puppies are 16 weeks old, the first set of rabies shots are given – this is a legal requirement in most locations - for rabies is a deadly disease that can kill both man and dog.

After the first round of vaccines, booster shots on different diseases can be done on an annual basis or in some cases, on an as needed, case by case situation. Regular veterinarian checkups can help you with these decisions. I have compiled a list on what conditions needs special attention and most especially getting the shots needed for prevention.

1. Canine parvovirus is a condition that affects blood and intestines of your pets. Once they enter the bloodstream, your dog experiences vomiting, diarrhea and are depressed. Canine Parvovirus is transferred from the feces of an infected dog and if you think your dog has this disease, act quickly. It has been reported that dogs die within couple of days after having contracted such a disease.

2. Rabies is a virus that affects the dogs’ central nervous system - that why they go ‘mad’. This disease is fatal and most states require your dog to have rabies shots as prevention. They are transferred from contact with saliva or a bite from a wild animal.

3. Infectious canine hepatitis affects dog tissues by attacking the liver and symptoms include cloudy or white eyes.  Dogs usually get this by contact with urine of a dog with hepatitis.

4. Canine leptospirosis affects the kidneys which can lead to kidney failure and typical symptoms are convulsions, impaired vision and they vomit a lot.  This can be transferred from the urine of the dog with the disease.

5. Canine distemper is contagious and attacks the central nervous system of the dog. Symptoms include a runny nose and frequent sneezing. This is transferred by contact through an infected dog’s eyes, ears and nose.  They are silent killers for the owner often only knows that the dog has it when the dog is soon or completely paralyzed already.

6. Canine bordetellosis affects the respiratory system and is contagious by just coming in contact through an infected dog’s nose and eyes and your dog experiences a bad case of rough cough.

But why stop with one? After all – if one dog is fun, wouldn’t two dogs be great? The truth is that most dog lovers would gleefully answer yes to that – myself included. When you have two dogs you have double the fun with them. That’s twice as many kisses and twice as many times a day that your little companions will cuddle up by your side.

Besides that, if you happen to work outside of your home, having two dogs will mean that they can provide company for one another while you are away. You will find that they will become very close in a short amount of time. You will enjoy watching your little furry friends playing together – there’s nothing cuter than two puppies romping through the house together!

But on the other hand; dogs are a huge responsibility. Not only do you have to insure that they are fed properly, but you have to insure that their health care needs are attended to as well as insuring that you have the time available to be a good dog parent. This means that you will be able to play with them and to take them on walks, etc. And don’t forget that dogs need toys and other supplies.

If you find that meeting all of those responsibilities is not an issue then you may want to consider adding even more dogs to your family. But take care to learn about any local laws or ordnances that may govern the number of dogs you can own before you need a kennel license.

This brings up another topic, which is that of actually having a kennel of your own and breeding dogs. If you are an avid dog lover of specific breed you may decide that you want to become a hobby breeder. Of course, you will need to begin by learning some of the basics about breeding and then acquiring dogs that will be appropriate for breeding.

In general, your goal would be to have a large female and a small male dog of the breed that you want to breed. But you should keep in mind that the female should not be bred the first time she comes into heat. In most cases she will be about 18 months old before she is ready for breeding and the males are about a year old.

One dog can truly add a lot of joy to your home – but two or more can multiply that pleasure immensely. If your circumstances allow you to have two or more dogs I highly recommend it.

Different dogs have different dietary needs and no two dogs are alike, so just because you have dogs of the same breed does not mean that they will require the exact same diet; each dog has its own dietary needs.

Choosing the proper diet for your dog is necessary and just because it's ‘good’ doesn't mean it's healthy.  Always make it a point to feed your dog a healthy and nutritious diet. With so many "healthy choices" for a dog’s proper diet out in the market, you just have to use proper common sense on what is ideal and what works.

Do ask friends or family to find a well respected veterinarian that they have taken their dog to in the past. And because veterinarians are the true animal experts, they don’t jump into the commercialism craze that dog foods have jumped into during recent times.

Therefore, they will be able to give your their unbiased recommendation on nutrition facts and a proper dietary regimen for your dog. Pick a brand of dog food that is of high quality after careful consideration of a dog’s weight, size, age and activity.

Do a combination of both dry and moist canned food on his daily diet to maintain dental hygiene.

Do make sure that your dog is getting the recommended amount of dietary protein that is essential to his growth. The average ratio is 40% protein, 30% fiber and 30% starch but as mentioned earlier, dogs are individuals and each are different so this can change with age, breed and body weight.

A fat dog doesn’t mean they're healthy so it is imperative that you do not overfeed them. Just like people, an obese dog will develop and suffer from future medical complications like bone and muscle problems and may have a not so normal growth.

Do research on how many times you should feed your particular kind of  dog.  Some just require once a day while some will require 2 meals. The key is to regularize feeding by being specific and consistent on the time when you feed your dog. Just give the necessary measured amount of dog food they need daily.

Do feed the dog table scraps but, only in his feeding bowl and away from the table. This will let the dog know that it is not acceptable to eat by the table and he has his own place for eating.

Finding the proper diet for your dog is not difficult - all you need to have is genuine concern and care for your dog; begin with a little research and advice – the rest is easy.

That’s why it is important to be sure that you are ready for the additional work before you make the leap. First of all, you need to be prepared for the expenses that go along with pet ownership.

Dogs need more than food and water if they are too remain in optimal health. The truth is that the purchase price of a new puppy is only the beginning of the costs that the owner will be responsible for.

Basic dog supplies include everything from food, water, proper bowls to serve those items from, a collar or harness that holds an identification pendant, a leash, a dog crate, toys, a bed, a blanket, and, well, you probably get the idea by now – there are a lot of things to consider. Vet bills alone are a major concern for many puppy/dog owners.

Other issues involve deciding exactly which breed or type of dog is best suited for you, your home and your family. A lot depends on the type of lifestyle that you lead. Some breeds do better than others when left alone for long periods of time.

And some breeds are known to be very high strung and energetic. Other breeds are content to spend time by your side, whether that means going for a walk or sitting on the sofa. Getting a dog that fits in with your lifestyle will help the adjustment to dog ownership go more smoothly.

You also need to carefully decide where to get your puppy. Believe it or not, one of the worst choices is a pet shop. Ideally, you will purchase your new pet from a reputable breeder – an individual that has a true concern for that particular breed and that individual puppy. This person can tell you about proper care for your new pup and he/she can provide information about the puppy’s parents.

Preparing your home for the new puppy is another issue. Not only do you need to have all those supplies ready, but you also need to consider the fact that your puppy will go through a stage of exploring his new environment and just like a human baby, he is likely to go through a stage of chewing on things that you prefer he wouldn’t.

This means you need to keep certain items out of his reach – both for your sake of mind and for his safety. Shoes, belts, and purses are typical things that a puppy might chew on. But puppies also seem to enjoy chewing on electrical cords or even plants. Electrical cords have an obvious danger – and many plants are toxic to a puppy or dog.

When you decide to get a new puppy it is important to make certain choices and plans. The result will be a puppy that better fits in with your lifestyle and an easier transition for the both of you.

After all, pets do come with lots of responsibilities and needs. Not only do we need to understand and provide the nutritional needs of our cat or dog, but we have to have lots of toys and other supplies available.

In addition to routine immunizations and legally required vaccinations our pets need regular health checkups, dental care, and emergency care when they are ill. And just like with humans, these costs can add up very quickly.

Pet health insurance can help insure that money will not be an issue when these needs arise. However, it is important to learn about pet insurance before making a purchase.

The fact is that some policies are more comprehensive than others, and some include hidden charges or a plan that does not provide the coverage needed.

A common myth is that pet owners really don’t need pet insurance. The simple fact is that a single emergency can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. And emergencies cannot be planned – simply meaning they sometimes happen at a time when finances may not be optimal.

The truth is that more than a few pet owners have been faced with the daunting task of deciding between saving their beloved pet’s life and a financial hardship for themselves. Pet insurance can prevent this dilemma.

Many people believe that pet insurance is only accepted by a limited number of veterinarians. The truth is that almost any vet will happily work with a pet insurance provider – after all, they are in the business of making money and caring for pets. The two are a perfect fit.

Some people believe that pet insurance ‘only’ covers emergency pet care. The fact is that coverage provided depends on the policy chosen. Some pay for routine checkups, dental care, and even senior age pet care – but others don’t. That is why it is important to have a clear understanding of the coverage you need and what the policy entitles you to.

Many people assume that pet insurance is very expensive and that applying for coverage is a hassle. That is not true. Some policies are very inexpensive and most can be applied for with an easy online application.

But just as you would carefully select an insurance company and policy for yourself or your children, you should do the same with pet insurance. In fact, you might want to start by asking your own insurance provider if they offer pet insurance.

You might find that they do and that because of the fact that you already have a policy with them that you are entitled to a discount on the pet insurance.

Most puppies will initially want to pull away during a walk. While this may seem cute at first, if it is allowed to continue the practice will become ingrained and it is a difficult habit to break. A key component to leash training is to stop anytime the dog pulls. This helps to teach your pet proper leash manners.

In other words, if your puppy/dog puts tension on the leash, you automatically stop each and every time. All types of training should include treats, praise and other positive payoffs that help to instill in our dogs the concept that our way is the better way.

A clicker is a small device that makes a clicking sound when it is pressed. Each time that your pet demonstrates a desired behavior the click should be sounded, followed immediate with a reward of some type. The dog learns to associate the sound with a reward and good behavior is the prerequisite to the sound – which makes clicker training very effective.

You can help your dog learn that it's a good idea to stay close to you, that good things happen when you're nearby, by clicking and then giving him a treat. This helps to insure that you are more interesting to your dog than other things in the environment.

When you are working with your dog in an attempt to train him how to walk on a leash or any new trick at all actually, it is important that you have the right mindset.

This includes being patient. Expect that your dog will not immediately ‘get it’, and that will make things less frustrating if he doesn’t. You should also expect that there will be days that he does very well with his training and other days when you wonder what happened to his memory.

Relax – just like humans, dogs have good days and bad days. Some days he simply may not be in the right mood. Speaking of which, it is important that you insure he is not overly hungry or tired when you are attempting to train him.

With a kind and steady approach your dog will learn the things you want him to. He will work hard to please you and in the end the bond between the two of you will be strengthened.

Not only does training provide quality time for you and your pet, but it creates a well behaved animal that is more enjoyable to be around. That results in a better companion and a closer friendship between you and your furry little comrade.

But one problem that many of us have in common is having financial problems that sometimes prevent us from seeking professional veterinarian care each time that we would like to. And so we have the option of ignoring some problems or we can use some home remedies.

The tips you will find below are inexpensive and the chances are you will already have some of the ingredients in your medicine cabinet or in your kitchen. I have used each of these methods over many years to treat my dogs. Believe it or not, these ingredients will work.

This first tip is one you may have never even considered or even thought about it:

Meat Tenderizer mixed with water, until it is a paste-like consistency can be applied directly to stings or bites. This will not harm your pet and it is likely that he will feel an almost instant relief from pain or stinging. The paste can be reapplied as needed.

You can also make a paste from baking soda and water. This is something that I used to use for my children when they were small and we called it the ‘magic potion’. The kids preferred this ‘potion’ over any store bought medication that I ever found. Once again, this paste can be reapplied as needed.

The 3rd tip I have for you is aloe vera gel, from a aloe vera leaf when I have them but for a backup I keep a aloe vera gel that I get from my local drug store. Again it's a simple matter of applying the gel directly onto the bite. The results are almost instantaneous. Not only does it work great for dogs, you can use this for yourself.

A simple cold cloth held on the area can provide some relief. Just imagine what would feel good to you if you had just been bitten or stung by a bug. Most of us immediately wash the area and apply something cool. Your dog will appreciate the same sort of treatment.

As always, it is important to remember that I am not a veterinarian, I am simply a dog owner that loves my pets. If you are concerned about the safety of these treatments I applaud the fact that you have such concern for your pet. Please ask your vet about the safety of these techniques now, before you need these remedies. You can also do a search online to find other safe home remedies.

But finding effective ways of dealing with these behaviors is often a problem for many dog owners. We have to walk a fine line between being firm but in showing kindness at the same time when correcting our pets. Even old dogs can learn new tricks – but a lot depends on how we approach this teaching.

There are some things that we need to always be aware of and the most important is that our dogs have feelings. They have developed a love and trust in us. Even when correcting or training them we need to encourage this relationship that we have established.

The following tips can help in working with a dog that has a frustrating, annoying, or dangerous habit or behavior. These suggestions will encourage good behavior while maintaining the bond that you enjoy with your pet.

1. Consistency is the key when doing any type of training. You may be tempted to let them slide every once in awhile, but this will only serve to hamper your efforts. Be consistent with praise as well as with corrections and your dog will begin to understand what behavior you want and expect – the fact is that our dogs want nothing more than to please us.

2. Positive Reinforcement is Vital because it allows the dog to associate good behavior with a reward that he enjoys. Kindness pays off in almost every case. In brief, positive reinforcement means that you reward a dog when they do the right thing, and withhold the reward when they do not. Even the most stubborn dog will begin to respond to these training techniques, when they are applied consistently.

3. Use a dog crate sparingly. I always insist that dog crates not be over used. In reality, I would not use one myself but I know that many dog trainers suggest crates are one of the easiest ways to put an end to destructive behavior. A crate provides clear cut boundaries. Crating them while you are gone, or when you need some space is an effective and humane training aid. You may need to introduce them to the crate slowly, and allow them time to get used to being confined.

Remember, be consistent and reward them for good behavior in their crate. A crate should not be used as a punishment device, but rather as a safe place for them to go and relax. If you use a crate you should insure that it is the appropriate size for your pet and you should make it comfortable.

4. An additional cautionary note for you and especially your immediate family members. Once the dog behavioral problems are addressed, and the corrective training has started, it is imperative everyone involved with the dog use the same training techniques. Everyone must be consistent in the handling of the dog. If not your poor dog will become very confused and may display even more inappropriate behavior than before.

These easy tips can go a long way toward changing bad behavior to good. Both you and your pet will benefit from effective training. A well behaved pet is better liked by everyone and he is welcomed in more places. This makes it easier to take him with you for fun and travel. The bond between you will be stronger because you will enjoy his companionship even more than before.

As much as I love my dogs I have to realize that there are some differences between them and humans. The way they look at sex is one of those differences. Dogs obviously do have a drive to have sex – but it is driven by instinct. Intimacy and romance are not a part of the package for them.

This means that although a dog may be very loving toward his partner, they do not have the same type of relationship that humans do. If they are not having sex they are not feeling depressed or lonely because of it.

Many people have heard that neutering a dog will make him weaker or less ferocious. The fact is that neutering does not affect a dog’s physical abilities or strength.  In fact, neutering removes the sexual instinct that has some dogs attempting to track and chase females that are in heat.

Neutering can often help to correct many behavioral problems caused by the sex instinct in some dogs, especially in households with one or more pets and in a household with female dogs as well as people.

Neutered dogs can and do protect their territory. This means that if before neutering they were used as a guard dog to some degree, even after the procedure they will continue to guard and protect you and your property. These dogs are just as strong and masculine as ever.

Neutering is a responsible and loving thing for a pet owner to have done:  Many people use the argument that neutering an animal is unnatural. But in reality having pets is not a natural thing. After all, dogs were not always domesticated animals.

Their natural instinct is to live with a pack of dogs. But we have taken these animals in as members of our families. That makes it our responsibility to do what is best for them – to keep them safe and healthy.

Dogs that have not been neutered sometimes dangerously track and chase females in heat. Countless dogs get lost or hit by cars during such chases.  A neutered dog will not chase female dogs for the purpose of sex.  While we’re on the subject, it is important to keep in mind that when a male dog tracks and finds a female in heat the outcome is often a litter of unwanted puppies.

Neutering a dog does not cause him to gain weight or to be less active. However, in some cases dogs do gain weight after the surgery, but this is not related to the surgery itself. Instead, it is often due to the owner’s misconceptions and expectations that his dog will be slowing down.

This means the owner may unintelligently contribute to the dog’s weight gain by decreasing the amount of exercise the gets. Maintaining the proper feeding schedule with an appropriate amount of food and continuing with a healthy exercise routine is a must for maintaining the dog’s weight.

Another big advantage to having a dog neutered is that it eliminates certain health risks. With all these advantages it is easy to see that neutering is a wise choice for a responsible pet owner.

1 - Be Gentle - Your new puppy is going to be very sensitive at first, and as a result will not be able to handle anything that is too stressful, both emotionally and physically. Although learning generally takes place quickly, now is the time your puppy will react badly to stress or being trained too rough.

Keep in mind that fears developed during these early stages can affect your pet for the rest of his life. They can inhibit the dog's ability to learn and to socialize – so it is important that you exercise a gentle and caring approach that assures the puppy of your support.

2 - Keep It Short - Puppies are like small children, they have extremely short attention spans, which means any training sessions have to be short if they are going to be effective. Your puppy will learn only when his attention is focused on you; and you will not see the results you want when your puppy is physically or mentally tired. Plan short sessions at a time you’re your puppy is not too tired or hungry.

3 - Exercise Patience - Expecting results overnight will only frustrate you and make your training regime too intense to be enjoyable for you or your pet. Relax, and realize that things like this take time, and understand that there are some things that puppies learn more easily than others.

You should also expect some training sessions to go better than others. This may mean that one day the puppy suddenly seems to have forgotten what you thought he knew. Exercise patience and refresh his memory.

4 – Simplicity Is Best - Teaching your puppy should be done in a step by step process if you want to achieve the best results. This is the best way for a puppy to learn. Build on the knowledge that he learns overtime. If you plan and work a simple, step by step program your puppy will learn faster and enjoy the process more thoroughly than if you try to use a vigorous training regime.

5 - Build Confidence - Confidence is the core of every healthy adult dog, and building trust begins with confidence in a puppy. Building confidence in your puppy is not difficult to do, to begin, all you have to do is spend some quality time with your puppy – make this a positive experience for both of you.

This will help build confidence in your puppy and he will at the same time, come to feel that he can trust and rely on you. Although puppies need at least some training, you should also insure that there is plenty of play time. Your dog is your best friend and it is important that you treat your friends with love and respect – don’t ask for or expect too much.

As a dog owner your goal is to insure the health and vitality of your pet. He depends on you for his well-being. Not only do you need to learn about the various food choices and insure that your pet eats nutritiously, but you also need to provide the food at intervals that work with his/her system. Things to look for include a healthy looking coat, energy, and formed stools.

Your choice of food is much more important than the schedule that you choose – but, you do need to know that your dog will do better if you develop a routine, a regular schedule of some sort that he can count on. Some dogs depend on schedules so much they know down to the minute when their owner should be home from work and when their food should be in their bowls.

One of the easier ways of feeding a dog is using the self-feeding method. This is just what it sounds like. Food is available all the time and the pet is allowed to eat whenever he chooses. The pros of this method are that it is easy for the owner; all he/she has to do is insure that food is kept in the bowl. The drawbacks are that if the bowl is ever empty the dog will be upset and this method can encourage overeating, which of course, can lead to obesity.

While some dog owners feed their pets once a day, this is actually the least desirable schedule. The total amount of food should be divided between two or three feedings if it is not provided continuously. By offering the food in two or more meals the dog has less opportunity to feel hungry; he actually keeps food in his system. This means that he will be less likely to overeat during mealtime.

Overeating can lead to digestive distress and other problems, including diarrhea. The resulting problems can escalate and the problem can snowball. But a dog that is fed two or three times a day will eat small amounts at each serving and will therefore have an easier time of digesting his food.

Whether you choose multiple feedings or the self-feeding schedule, your pet will adjust and do fine. But remember that your dog will expect the routine to continue once it is started.

Sadly, the smells linger and the stains are difficult to completely eliminate. This is a very frustrating topic for many dog owners. Most of these individuals will tell you that after trying everything they finally gave up on ever getting their pet housebroken.

The good news is almost any dog can be housebroken. The steps listed in this article are proven to work but they have to be followed consistently to be effective.

One of the most basic methods of housebreaking a dog is with the use of a crate. First I want to say that although I do not advocate this technique, simply because I do not like the idea of confining a pet in a crate, I will admit that this method works – in fact, it is almost fail-proof.

To use this method you will need a crate or kennel. The idea behind the routine is to keep your pet confined in his space – a space that he will not want to ‘go potty’ in because it is his space. You will need to insure that the kennel is large enough for your dog to be comfortable, and make it a cozy space.

Watch your pet closely. Keep in mind that puppies need to ‘go’ more often than older dogs. Just as you would with a small toddler that you were potty training, you will need to take your pet out to potty after a nap, after play, after a meal, and at various other times.

Each time your pet does as you want, which is relieving himself where you want him to, you should lavish him with praise or reward him somehow. If you choose to give your dog a treat you will need to keep in mind that treats include calories that will add up – and oftentimes these calories are not necessarily nutritious.

If you choose not to use a crate you can still use a variation of the same method and it will be just as effective – but more effort will be required on your part. You will need to keep the dog with you – in most cases you will want the pet in the same room at all times.

Use the same intervals to take your pet to the appropriate spot to relieve himself. It’s a good idea to have a code word for what you want your pet to do, and it’s important to remember that there will probably be times that other people will be around when you use this word.

Taking your pet to the same spot helps the dog make an association with the spot and the activity. This is true whether you are using a puppy pad or a spot outdoors.

With a little effort your dog will be housebroken in a short amount of time. The important thing is not giving up. If you do you will be back where you started and the task will be more difficult than before.

Fortunately for my friend and his family, Roscoe seemed to love the new baby as much as his parents did. The only problem was that he was a little too curious about this little creature. But as time went on Roscoe adjusted and there have never been any real problems. In fact, Roscoe seemed to attempt to ‘babysit’ while the baby slept and when he cried Roscoe assumed that it was his duty to alert the parents.

For this family all things worked out well. But in other cases there are sometimes problems when a new baby comes. The fact is that there are some steps you can take to help prepare a dog for the change that is about to take place. This preparation can save a lot of problems for you and your family – the good news is that the preparation is simple.

Include Your Dog In The Preparation

First of all you need to think about things from your dog’s perspective. He doesn’t know exactly what is happening. He only knows that something is happening. He may see new things coming into the home or a room being painted, or even a room that he used to hang out in now being off limits. But he doesn’t understand why.

Planning ahead for your baby includes lots of things – including the fact that you have a dog that will be around. So if you are not already in the habit of keeping your dog groomed now is the time to work on that. After a nice bath and brushing take your dog into the nursery and allow him to look around and smell the scent of the new items. Help him to understand what is happening.

Plans For Helping Your Dog Adjust To A New Routine

As a new parent your schedule will change because your baby will decide when it is time to sleep and eat. That’s just how it is. This is usually not a problem for most dogs to adjust to – that is, except for younger dogs, puppies and teenage dogs.

These dogs are full of energy and they do not necessarily adjust to taking naps when the baby does. This can work out well though, because it can mean that while the baby naps you can spend more time you’re your dog.

If your dog is older and somewhat set in his ways you may want to provide a quiet corner for his bed, so he can continue with his naps undisturbed. Remember that this transition is totally new for him.

Before Bringing The Baby In

Please don’t make the mistake of simply walking in the dog ‘unannounced’ to your dog upon return home from the hospital with your new baby. He will have missed you and he will be expecting to spend time with you – he will also expect that he will be the center of your attention.

Before you come in with the baby have someone else take in a blanket or other item that the baby has touched so the dog can smell it. But be sure to lavish the dog with praise, hugs, and even a treat. This will help him associate the baby’s smell with good things.

No matter how mild tempered you think your little (or big) dog is, DO NOT leave him alone with your newborn baby. Your dog still isn’t quite sure what this little thing is all about. He doesn’t know that the baby is here to stay – and if he did he may not like the idea.

Small babies often move in little jerks which can set off instincts in dogs. Unfortunately, it can sometimes be the instinct to chase and kill animals. Keep a close watch on how your dog behaves around the baby for the first few days. Let him know that he has not been forgotten just as you would an older sibling of the new baby.

With a little planning and effort the family dog will love the new baby as much as he loves his parents. In fact, in most cases, the family dog ends up behaving as though he is the baby’s third parent!

One of the most common causes of diarrhea is a change in diet. Some dogs are more sensitive to changes than others. A dog that has been conditioned by being fed a wide variety of foods, such as table scraps, is less likely to be bothered by a change than a dog that has always eaten a particular brand of dog food. Even a change in drinking water, such as when traveling, can result in temporary diarrhea.

Puppies have especially sensitive intestinal tracts. Therefore it is essential that any changes in their diets be made very gradually. If you purchased your puppy from a breeder you probably received a sample of the dog food that he was eating while there. That is the food your puppy should begin eating when you take him home.

If you want to change to something else you should make the change gradually. Begin by mixing 3 parts of the original food to 1 part of the new. If your puppy tolerates that then after about a week you can change the mixture to about half and half.

Feed that concoction for about a week. If all goes well then you can move it up to 1 part of the original food from the breeder and 3 parts new. Once again, you should feed that mixture for about a week. And finally, your puppy will totally be on the food of your choice.

Underfeeding and overfeeding can also result in diarrhea. An underfed dog will eat to the point of illness when it finally has the opportunity. This often results in diarrhea. Feeding schedules should be adjusted to meet the needs of particular dogs according to their age, etc.

Most breeders and many vets recommend self-feeding, in which dry food is always available for the dog. Others suggest that the full day’s food be divided into two servings; one early in the day and the other late in the day.

Excessive water consumption can also result in diarrhea. The truth is that when a dog is drinking copious amounts of water there are often underlying causes that require medical attention and a visit to the veterinarian is in order.

Spoiled food, whether it is food that was actually given to the pet or food that he found in a garbage can, etc. can often cause diarrhea. Food from garbage cans in itself may be safe but the fact is that garbage cans are likely to hold many contaminates that the dog may encounter as he digs for the food. Those culprits may lead to serious digestive problems.

Parasites, such as whip or hook worms can cause diarrhea, and there are a variety of illnesses including distemper in which diarrhea is a symptom. But in most cases, diarrhea is not a major health risk.

It usually has something to do with the dog’s diet and within a day or two the problems subside. If it lasts more than a day or two, or if your dog is showing other signs of distress, don’t take a chance, visit your veterinarian.

The first basic thing that dog owners teach their dogs are the commands to sit and stay. With a little time and effort on a regular basis you can certainly train your dog which will result in him being a well behaved and even a helpful dog. When dogs are taught to fetch things they turn into helpful companions that can actually help with odd jobs around the home.

With the right tips you can teach your dog to do just about anything – which is intellectually stimulating to your pet, resulting in an increased ability to learn more new tricks and an even more helpful pet.

The regular tricks that dog enjoy doing are fetching the newspaper and mail while you have morning coffee. Your dog can also be taught to help you search for the car keys and or remote controls that often get misplaced.

Your dog will need to be taught the names of these items so he can make an association with what it is that you want him to find for you. Your pet will then use his keen sense of smell to locate the object.

Teaching your dog to behave and to do certain basic tricks helps to make them a part of the family. By spending the necessary time with your pets and interacting with them, both the dog and you will sense the bond that grows. Setting boundaries with your pet will be easier as well. In fact, you will find that over time you will be able to teach your pet almost anything you attempt to.

The more words your dog learns to recognize the more things he will be able to fetch and find. Whenever you say the word remote or car keys your dog will go around sniffing with his sensitive nose and searching for them till he finds and brings them to you clenching it with his teeth. You can teach your dogs your family names and the names of different household objects like the telephone and he will learn to answer the phone.

Using rewards for a job well done is one way to keep your dog motivated and ready to assist you when you need it. Small treats can make your dog’s effort worthwhile.

Remember, a trained dog will be happier and live a fuller life, and he can make your life easier too!

Before training your pet you should try to understand his behavioral psychology as that will assist you in working with your pet. Training your dog can completely change the dog’s behavior and you can certainly change his aggressive nature and make him into a subdued and well mannered pet.

Your loving and friendly attitude can help to shape your dog regardless of the type and age of the dog. Dogs love the idea of being trained by their owners because they desire nothing more than to spend time with their best friend. This time they spend working together allows the dog time to learn and have fun as the bond between pet and owner grows.

The dog always turns to his loving owner for directions and also after completing his task as he hopes for and expects an incentive and treat. You can give him a loving hug or offer him his favorite food, or even give some kind praise.

The incentive and rewards you offer keeps your dog motivated to obey your commands and perform the tricks you trained him for. To grasp your dog’s attention you need to train him at a secluded spot in your home so that you can easily train him to be obedient. The dog’s senses are very sensitive and he can easily be distracted with the slightest sound and smell so training him in quiet spot is usually a good idea – at least at first.

People who understand the behavior and psychology patterns of their dogs succeed in training and teaching their dogs in a better way. The earlier training is started the better. Even small puppies can start picking up habits such as being house-trained, sit, no, etc. If you wait until later the training is more difficult because the dog will not only need to learn whatever it is that you are trying to teach him, but it is also likely that he will need to break old habits in the process.

Remember that dogs are very sensitive and you can simply use sign language as a method of teaching or clicker training. Patience, love, and kindness will result in your dog learning quickly and the bond between you will grow stronger than ever.

The funny thing is that although most of us have become increasingly health conscious over years, resulting in our reading labels before purchasing food, we give little thought to the ingredients of our pets’ foods. Sadly, even the so called ‘quality’ commercial dog foods usually contain extremely low grade, hardly edible, animal by-products.

The term animal by-product basically refers to any part of an animal that is deemed not suitable for human consumption. What may surprise you even more is the condition of the animals that are used, but more about that later.

There are not any special farms designated for growing chickens, cows, lambs, pigs, or any other animal just for dog food. Pet food companies use whatever they can get, which includes the leftovers from meat processing plants. As you can imagine, that is some pretty disgusting stuff, including blood, lungs, ligaments, bones, beaks, feet, heads, well, you get the idea.

Unfortunately it gets even worse. So-called “4D” animals (dead, dying, diseased, disabled) were only recently banned for human consumption and are still legitimate ingredients for pet food.

The dog food labels do not clearly describe what your pet is getting so you cannot be sure of the quality of the food. If the label lists by-products as a primary ingredient you can be sure that the food is made chiefly of the type of leftovers mentioned in this article. However, if the label lists poultry or lamb as a primary ingredient then it is probably made with a higher quantity of quality meat.

In days gone by our pets were fed scraps from the table and we never gave a second thought to the nutritional value of their diet. The thought was that what was good enough for us was good enough for our dogs. Contrary to what modern ads would have you believe, that is basically still true today.

As long as you eat a healthy diet sharing it with your pet is fine. Why not take the guess work out of it. Talk with your veterinarian about your dog’s diet and the fact that you want him/her to stay away from by-products. He can likely recommend a high quality food or suggest table scraps and a daily supplement. I personally feed my dogs a mixture of rice, peanut butter, vegetables, beef and beef gravy, plus a small amount of vegetarian dog food. They are in excellent health and love their food.

It probably will not come as a surprise when I say that fleas are a common problem for dogs. Of course, some areas are more heavily infested with the pests than others but few dog owners will argue the fact that fleas are indeed a nuisance.

Not only do they irritate our pets, causing them to itch and scratch, but the pests can actually infest our homes. Over the years many different methods have been used to minimize this problem, many of which include the use of chemicals. While these solutions may be effective their safety is somewhat questionable. For that reason many people are turning to natural alternatives.

These methods are safe to use on your pet, around your children, and of course, in your home. They are safer for the environment than the chemically-based formulas; however, they may not be quite as effective.

Some natural home remedies for fleas include: coriander, bay leaves, dill, lemon peel, and cloves. Placing these in cabinets and cupboards where food is stored will keep fleas from infesting those areas. Feeding your dog garlic and diets rich in essential fatty acids can help to make your pet less attractive to fleas.

One of the basic and simplest ways to combat a flea infestation is to vacuum on a daily basis. Fleas can get down deep into the pile of the carpet so the vacuuming can collect them. Just be sure to empty the bag/canister outdoors as soon as you are done. It is also important to keep your pet free from fleas by brushing and combing him. Additionally, you will need to wash his bedding and other areas that he routinely visits on a regular basis.

Fleas are attracted to light so one way to collect and drown fleas is to use a night light or candle and a shallow plate of water. If you use a candle you can place the glowing candle in the plate of water in a dark room. The fleas will be attracted to the light and when they jump toward it they will land in the water and drown.

Using the night light is the same concept. Plug the light into an outlet and set the plate of water below it. Once again, the thought is that the fleas will jump into the water in an attempt to reach the light and they will drown.

An alternative for flea spray is a mixture of half vinegar and half water. Be sure not to get this in your dog’s eyes or ears. This will help to kill fleas on your pet, his bedding, your furniture, and even your carpet. If you believe fleas are deep down in your carpet you can sprinkle salt over it and leave it set for a few hours before vacuuming. The salt works to kill the fleas.

Using safe, natural ways to rid your pet and home of fleas is better for you and for the environment. You will save money and both you and your pet will feel better.

Some dog owners want their pet to be of show quality, some want a hunting companion, others want a dog that can protect their home and yard, and still others simply want a pet that they can count on for friendship, love and loyalty.

Obviously some owners will need to work with their dogs more closely if they are to instill the qualities they desire in their pet. But it is true that many dog owners do not spend much time training their little friends; instead, they seem happy to have their dog just as he is. In fact, some people prefer dogs that are full of their natural instincts.

Whether your dog is a champion or he is a hunter or simply a companion, he should be taught some simple commands. The three basic commands that can literally save your dog’s life are; ‘stay,’ ‘drop it’, and ‘leave it’ or ‘no.’ Each of these commands can be taught very quickly and without much effort.

By teaching your pet to stay you can be assured that you can prevent him from running into traffic or out your front door. Countless dogs are lost or even killed because they unknowingly put themselves at risk. You can greatly reduce this risk for your dog if you teach him the ‘stay’ command.

Puppies love to chew on things and they are usually not particular about what that is. Even adult dogs sometimes find inappropriate objects to play with. Teaching your dog to ‘drop it’ or ‘leave it’ can prevent him from eating something poisonous or otherwise dangerous, or it can simply keep him from getting into your kitchen garbage. An alternative to teaching each of these two commands individually is simply teaching your pet the ‘no’ command.

Believe it or not it is easy to train your dog to respond to these commands. Work with you pet on a regular basis, but keep the training sessions short. A 10 – 15 minute session is usually sufficient. Always reward your pet with praise or a treat for each success.

To begin teaching the your pet to stay you may want to leave your pet in a room, repeat the command a few times, then walk out, closing the door behind you. After doing this a few times you can use the same technique without closing the door. After you dog has mastered that you will want to take him outdoors, in an enclosed area, and continue the practice.

The other commands can be taught by practicing with a safe item that you know your pet finds tempting.  This can be anything of your choosing; food, a shoe, or even a toy. When you see your puppy or dog attempt to explore or pick up the object you should give the command. Repeat if necessary.

If your pet ignores you and picks up the object you should remove it and repeat the command again. You may find that offering another object in trade for the forbidden one will speed up the learning process.

Remember to keep the training session short and always reward your pet for a job well done. These simple commands can help keep your dog safe and make your life with your pet more enjoyable.

These pesky little parasites are not only annoying to our pets but they can actually cause real health problems. Fleas not only bite our pets, they literally suck the blood from them. This results in an irritation and the dog will scratch, bite and dig at the sites. If the dog accidentally eats a flea internal worms can develop.

Dog owners have to be alert to early signs of fleas if they are to avoid an infestation on their pets. If you notice your pet scratching more than usual there is a good chance he is suffering with fleas. In which case, a simple check of his skin should provide evidence of the parasites. You are likely to find fleas or perhaps the flea’s droppings.

Flea droppings or excrement will look much like dirt particles. But if moistened this dirt will turn reddish – that red color is from the blood of your dog!

Don’t panic though. There are several ways that you can deal with this problem. You do need to be aware that when your pet scratches he may be distributing fleas. You also need to know that fleas multiply very quickly so in order to prevent an infestation in your home you will need to take some extra steps.

It’s a good idea to talk with your veterinarian about the problem. He is likely to have the perfect solution suitable for you and your pet. There are many chemically-based sprays and shampoos available.

Some are only available through a veterinarian and others can be purchased at a pet shop or even a grocery store. Always follow the directions precisely as instructed because misuse of these products can result in allergic reactions or serious medical problems.

Your veterinarian will also be able to guide you in using natural, nonchemical solutions. These options are safe and environmentally friendly. When it comes to your home you can begin with an easy ‘treatment’ that consists of a thorough cleaning of the dog’s bedding and other favorite areas.

Regular vacuuming can go a long way in collecting fleas and their eggs that may be in carpet or on furniture; just be sure to empty the bag after each use and dispose of it outdoors. There are also sprays and ‘foggers’ available that act to kill any fleas in a given area.

Early detection is key to preventing a flea infestation. Be alert to your dog’s scratching and explore the possibility that he may have fleas. If you find that he does immediately take steps to eradicate the pests from your pet and your home. Your dog will be more comfortable and you will be able to enjoy your little companion without worry that he is depositing fleas in your home or on you.

First of all, it’s important to know that a shiny coat, as beautiful as it is, is much more about being healthy than it is about beauty. But in this case, as in many others, health and beauty seem to go hand in hand. Your dog’s coat will not look its best if his health is suffering.

In essence there are five things you can provide or do to contribute to your dog’s beautiful coat:

• Good Nutrition
• Keep Him Parasite-Free
• Use A Good Conditioner
• Buy Him His Own Shampoo
• Brush Regularly

Being a responsible dog owner means providing proper nutrition for your pet. And believe it or not, just because you pay a lot for a dog food does not always mean your dog is getting everything he needs in his diet. Check with your veterinarian about your pet’s specific needs and learn to read the labels on the pet food products you purchase. Compare the ingredients from one product to another.

If you feed your pet home-cooked foods you may need to add a quality supplement to insure that he is getting all the vitamins and minerals necessary. Your veterinarian can guide you in making wise decisions about a supplement choice.

Most dogs end up getting at least some fleas during their lifetime. It’s up to the owner to see that this problem never becomes an infestation. Some dogs are more sensitive than others to fleas and flea bites. These dogs are likely to bite at themselves, sometimes to the point of developing sores or even losing hair, in the areas where the fleas are or have bitten the dog.

Routine fur and skin checks can keep a problem from developing. Some dog owners prefer to use flea prevention medications year round so they never have to deal with the problem at all.

While we all agree that dogs do not need to bathe as regularly as humans there is some disagreement about just how often is right for our pets. In general, dogs should not be bathed more often than once per week unless there are special circumstances. But of course, some breeds need to be bathed more often than others simply because of their lifestyle.

Additionally, dog fur is not exactly like human hair so it should not be treated the same way. Specially formulated shampoos and conditioners will work to make the dog’s coat shiny and help to keep it tangle free which makes it easier to brush. Another important point is that while these products are strong enough to be effective, they are gentle to your pet’s skin and his eyes, if you should accidently get the product in them.

The last thing I want to mention is probably the most basic and the most obvious. Brushing your dog’s hair will help distribute natural oils and help remove dander and loose fur. The result will be a shinier and healthier looking coat. Every dog should be brushed at least once or twice a week, but some breeds, such as a Shih Tzu, should be brushed daily.

While dog leads are a simple concept, a strap or chain intended to restrain the animal, there is much more to choosing the one that is right for you and your dog than you may think. This becomes obvious as you begin shopping for a dog leash. Even the smallest pet shop will carry a variety of leads, in varying lengths and made of anything from plastic to metal.

To determine which one is right for you and your pet you should begin with determining your specific needs. If you plan to use your lead for walking your dog as you stroll through the neighborhood for example, a nylon leash (4 – 6 feet long) is ideal. These leads have a clip for attaching to a harness or collar at one end and a loop handle at the other.

The proper length needed is determined by the height of the dog and by how much freedom you want to allow him. As you can imagine, the shorter the leash, the less freedom the dog will have to stray. Short leads are used during dog shows because they can provide greater control of the animal during competitions.

Most dog trainers agree that a 4 ft. lead made of soft braided leather works best for dog training. These leads also have a clip at one end and a loop handle at the other. The trainer can have a tight grip on the leash, which is often needed during training, and at the same time, the lead can easily be folded into a shorter length if the need arises.

If you are fortunate enough to live in an area where you can safely allow your dog a little more freedom during walks, you will probably want to use a retractable lead. These leads are 15 – 25 feet long. They have a plastic handle and a thin rope (sometimes made of wire) that retracts automatically. This allows your pet freedom while keeping you in control.

There are also extended length dog leads made of nylon rope. These can range in length from 12 to 30 feet and they can be ideal for training a puppy to fetch or for tracking sessions.

Some dogs are used for special purposes, such as Guide Dogs (Seeing Eye Dogs) and other special assistance needs. Many of these dogs use leads that are specifically designed for that unique purpose.

Leads range in price from about $5 up to about $50. Knowing what you will be using the leash for will make your shopping much easier. Once in the store you should look for a leash that is made of quality material and that has secured stitches. Whether the lead is made of leather or nylon, it’s a good idea to look for one that feels soft. You and your pet will appreciate the flexibility.

And finally, the clip should be sturdy. Check it out and consider the fact that it will be used repeatedly. Therefore, the clip should be made of a durable metal that will hold up to many uses.

The breeder will gently stroke and touch the puppies a few times each day. The puppies will also be picked up and held. As they grow older the puppies will be played with. Their feet and faces are touched regularly. This helps the puppy learn to accept and appreciate touch which makes grooming the dog easier. The puppies are also loved and kissed.

Of course puppies have to learn about lots of new things in the world – simple things like how various surfaces feel. So the conscientious breeder will make efforts to introduce the puppies to elements like carpet, tile, grass, dirt, and concrete. Other things breeders do to help puppies with their socialization skills includes introducing them to various people and pets.

Now you may be wondering why these things are so important. The reason is simple really. Good socialization that begins early helps create a well adjusted pet. It can make a difference in how you puppy adjusts to his new environment.

Imagine how a puppy that has never been socialized might behave on the first night at your home. Think about it. The pads of his little feet may have never felt any surface other than that of a crate. He has never been allowed to ‘explore’ a room or the outdoors. His contact with people and pets has been very limited.

Obviously that would have an impact on how he would adjust. What you might perceive as being shy could very well be fear of the unknown. It is clearly important that you purchase your pet from a caring breeder that gives the animals a good start in life.

Socialization does not stop when the animal leaves the breeder. In fact, it is just beginning. The puppy should now have lots of opportunities to go places with you, which means he will be introduced to new environments and new people regularly. This helps him learn how he should behave in various places and with different people.

Remember, a puppy is much like a child. You must be patient and be willing to teach him the things he needs to know. He wants nothing more than to make you happy and to be a great companion. All you have to do is show him how!

Whether it is our ankles or the ankles of other pets in the home, the new puppy is likely to ‘attack’ each time we walk across the floor. Although this activity is cute and even adorable at first, it can become quite annoying in a short period of time. Not only is it irritating but it can also become a costly and hurtful experience.

Sometimes those sharp little teeth and claws land just right, grabbing and tearing through not only our pants, socks, and/or hose, but also our skin. Ouch! This is obviously a problem that new puppy owners frequently complain of.

The good news is that there are some simple solutions to the problem. You clearly want your puppy to understand that you are the one in charge in your home. But you don’t want your puppy to be frightened of you and you understand that he is only playing. The perfect way out is to provide a distraction for your little dog.

Each time that he does his ‘attack’ thing you should be prepared with a distraction of some sort. Many people use noise makers for this. The ‘noise maker’ should be something that is unusual for your home. It could be a clapping of your hands, snapping of your fingers, shaking of a jar of pennies, etc. The point is that the noise needs to get the pup’s attention.

The noise has to be out of the ordinary to do that. But some puppies do not respond to strange noises. They continue with the attack as if nothing else is going on. In that case you could try offering a favorite toy. You will need to place the toy near the puppy and make a real effort to get his attention.

Depending on how much your puppy likes playing toys, this tactic may be effective. The last option is really not a favorite because it can send the wrong message to your puppy. If all else fails you can use a treat to distract your puppy. The bad thing is your pup could learn to associate this misbehavior with a positive reward.

On the up side of things, puppies do grow out of this stage. As with everything else, time will take care of the problem, if your patience last that long!

The symptoms may not be apparent and therefore the condition may go unnoticed. In fact, some dogs have died of pancreatitis without showing signs of the problem. Just to be on the safe side it is wise to avoid being overly generous with your holiday meals.

Keep the fatty table scraps for compost and let your dog eat his regular food. And please remember that turkey bones should never be given to a dog because they splinter – which means they can cause serious problems for your dog.

Many of the desserts and treats we indulge in at holiday time not only contain too many calories for our pets (and us!), but in some cases, they are very dangerous for our pets. A good example of this is chocolate. Chocolate has been known to cause everything from vomiting to coma and even death. Raisins can also be detrimental to dogs. This can include even a few raisins so dogs should not eat treats that contain raisins.

Many of the decorative items used at Christmas time are dangerous to dogs. Snow globes are one example. Although the newer globes are usually filled with a safe liquid, many of the older ones are said to be filled with a poisonous fluid. Since it is almost impossible to be sure if your snow globe is safe or not, it is wise to insure that it is in a safe location.

The Poinsettia plant can make a dog very ill if eaten. Although the illness is usually short-lived, it is very uncomfortable. Mistletoe and Holly can cause more serious problems.

When it comes to Christmas and decorating we leave no stone unturned. We hang wreaths on the doors and put trees up in our homes. We then drape sparkling tinsel over our lovely tree, which of course, is another hazard to our little pets. In addition to the tinsel we light our tree up which means we have electrical cords attached to it. Once again, this can be another dangerous item for a dog.

If we are using a live tree we may add chemicals to the water in the tree stand to extend the life of the tree. If our dog drinks that water he could become very ill.

As we enjoy the holidays many of us relax with alcohol or even recreational drugs. A word of caution: some dogs like the taste of alcohol, but for safety reasons, dogs should never be allowed to consume alcohol. Dogs seem to be very susceptible to marijuana. The effects can last for up to two days and they can be severe.

During the holidays and all other times, insure that your home is safe for your pet. Don’t allow him to be around things that pose a threat to him. Remember, your dog’s safety is your responsibility, he depends on you.