One of the biggest phases that a puppy will go through is the fear of being alone. And I'm not talking about being alone in the sense of you leaving the house. Some puppies will go absolutely nuts even when you only leave the room for a split second. They just can't bear to be alone because they are used to having their mommy or litter mates around non-stop.

When faced with this situation, what you do? If you run to your puppy to sooth and caress him every time he cries, then you are only feeding the behavior and creating a spoiled dog. On the other hand, if you ignore him and let him bark his brains out, the rest of the family (especially your spouse) will become very annoyed with you for letting the barking go on.

It's like being stuck between a rock and a hard place, however, we do have some tips to help you deal with your puppy barking situation:

1. The first step is to try to ignore your puppy's barking if at all possible without yelling at him. Yelling will either scare him from wanting to come near you or will further add to his anxiety levels that and  he will continue barking.

2. There is a product called a “teaching lead” which will enable your puppy to be around you at all times in the house.  Use these types of tools so that your puppy can be around you while he is getting used to his independence.

3. When you leave the house, try to refrain from long and drawn out departures. Although it's understandable to want to pet your puppy and talk sweet to her before leaving the house, it only creates more stress because she will start to associate your behavior with you leaving her side. The same advice goes when you arrive home.  Avoid big and exciting welcomes after walking through the door.

4. Try using a simple training aid to get your puppy to quiet down immediately when she is barking. A water bottle that sends a quick burst of streaming spray is a perfect idea. Or you could use a small tin can filled with a few pennies in it. When you go to leave her side and she starts barking, simply throw that can in her area. It will create a startling noise while at the same time diverting her attention.

1. Signs of slowing down: your normally perky dog that likes to run amok the moment you open your backyard door will now trot slowly.  When taking for a brisk walk, he will often lag behind and seem somewhat reluctant to pick up the pace.  Instead of bounding up when getting up when you call him, he will slowly and gingerly get up to come near you.

2. Another sign is showing signs of graying hair: your dog will start to grow gray hairs around the muzzle and face particularly below the chin and around the eye brows.  On some dogs, graying hair will also appear around the feet and tail.

3. Difficulty of hearing: some dogs experience neurological changes and suffer hearing loss.  Initially it will come out as if your dog is being stubborn and refuses to follow your command.  If you will observe your dog closely, he will respond more to low pitched sounds compared to high pitched tones.  Other signs of deafness will be your dog getting startled when you make a sound from behind him as he did not hear your approach.

4. Cloudy eyes: a young dog’s eyes are normally clear and bright.  As your dog ages, his eyes will start to dull and become cloudy and bluish in appearance.  You will see your dog’s eyes forming a white ring around the cornea.  These are deposits caused by aging but will not affect your dog’s vision.  What will affect your dog’s eye sight will be the formation of cataract in the crystalline lens inside the eye.  You will know your dog has cataract if he would bump into furniture and people yet does not show signs of dizziness and lack of balance. 

5. Muscle atrophy: your dog may appear to have sagging muscles.  This is due to muscle atrophy that is related to aging.  This will result to weakness of your dog making regular exercises seem more difficult.  Your dog will now have difficulty climbing up the stairs or pull on a favorite cart.

6. “Accidents” due to incontinence: this is also related to muscular atrophy. The muscles that control your dog’s bowel and bladder will now weaken and your dog will eventually lose control of his elimination habits.  “Accidents” can happen while your dog is inside the crate, inside at home and even while you he’s sleeping.

It is important that you give appropriate support measures when you see these signs of ageing in your dog.  You will need to have regular visits with your vet to monitor your dog’s condition for there are many age-related disorders that your dog can experience.  These can range from canine cognitive dysfunction, arthritis, and heart disease.  Ask your vet for appropriate dog supplements to help your dog stay healthy through the ageing process.

Research on why dogs eat grass is still inconclusive.  Some speculate that grass eating is a result from a gastrointestinal disorder.  Usually, dogs that eat grass are found to have gastric ulcers, worms, or just typically an upset stomach.

It seems that the grass acts as a binder for the toxins or worms that infest your dog’s digestive tract, and is purged along with the grass when your dog either vomits or has diarrhea.  It is still a mystery if your dog vomits or has diarrhea because of the grass, or he does so because he initially has stomach problems.

Pregnancy can also cause your dog to eat grass.  Usually, this happens when your dog is at the first stage of pregnancy.   You will notice that before your pregnant dog would eat grass she would show signs of being nauseated, but nothing comes out.   It seems to help calm her stomach after inducing her to vomit.  However, this is a case to case basis.  Some pregnant dogs will not eat grass during the duration of their pregnancy.

Dogs also seem to prefer eating grass that has been constantly urinated on by other dogs or animals.  The keenest senses of canines are their sense of smell and taste.  Once they have caught the scent of another canine that has urinated on a patch of grass, they would munch away.

It may be because the dog is gathering information about the dog that has marked its territory.  Or, it could be that the taste of that particular grass is much better compared to others.  Urine has urea, a component that is found to enrich plants and a common compound found in composts and commercial fertilizers.

Other dog owners theorize that dogs eat grass because it is a common part of a dog’s diet in the wild.  Even if wild dogs hunt game, grass and other vegetation are still found inside the intestines of these animals.  The preference has evolved because dogs cannot simply pick out grass from the inert parts of what they have killed.

Grass-eating is quite harmless to dogs.  Just make sure that the grass that they are eating are not prayed with harmful insecticides and maintained by use of commercial fertilizers.  These chemicals are harmful for dogs, and can create health complications. If you are concerned with your dog’s grass grazing habit, try to substitute some vegetables in the diet.

A lot of pet owners have found that supplementing their dog’s diet with raw vegetables such as carrots and lettuce lessens the grazing of dogs.  Excessive vomiting and diarrhea may or may not be brought about by grass eating and regardless of the cause, warrants an immediate visit with the vet.

But then again, experts beg to differ.  Through research, it has been found that a dog’s eye has different amounts of photoreceptors compared to us humans.  There are two photoreceptors in the retina: rods and cones.  The rods are responsible for night vision, peripheral vision, and perception of black and white.

The cones on the other hand, are responsible for day vision, central vision, and color perception.  A dog’s eye is mostly made up of rods, and only has 10% of cones.  How does this relate to vision?  A dog perceives the world differently.  They see mostly black and white, and can only appreciate color when their nose is already touching an object.

Meaning, your dog will not realize that you’re wearing a pink shirt unless he’s already all over you.  Also, your dog perceives movement differently compared to humans, and some claim that a lower refresh rate will only make viewing harder for dogs.

Still, if dogs cannot watch TV, then how come this skateboarding dog knows how to play a video game?  A dog’s interest may be captured by a sudden movement in the screen, or a sound from another animal.  If they see another animal on screen, they react by barking and wagging their tail.

And, if you hook your TV to a video camera and shoot your dog with it live, your dog will react to his image by growling and barking.  That means a dog can still perceive objects even in 2D.  But dogs do not watch TV if the family is around.

Their attention is mostly riveted on the actions and motions of the family that he’s guarding, so your dog would mostly just ignore the TV.  However, the sounds and sights in a TV can be highly beneficial for your dog if he has separation anxiety.

A human’s eye is appreciative of a TV screen if the refresh rate is around 50Hz-60Hz.  On the other hand, the refresh rate for a dog is around 70Hz-80Hz.  For us, the TV may be running smoothly.  But for dogs, the screen is just like watching an old movie, with the film highly scratched and worn out.

Aside from that, a dog mostly relies on his hearing and smell.  Sights and sounds are secondary for him, and his sense of smell is the most important of all.  This signifies two things: 1) your dog can be somewhat uninterested what’s on the tube for it’s not stimulating his sense of smell.  2) If you make your dog addicted to the tube, his sense of smell would not be stimulated enough and it can eventually dull a somewhat sharp perception.

If you notice that your dog is watching too much TV,  you must lessen his tube time and stimulate him by bringing him outside the house, or presenting him with something new every now and then.

There is still some debate going on over a dog’s ability to watch TV.  What’s important is that you let your dog be a dog by letting him act like one and not love it too much when he’s “acting human” by watching the tube.

As with humans, a stationary dog can have health problems related to lack of mobility and stimulation, so play with him every once in a while.  You are your dog’s best entertainment system, and you will gain more of your dog’s adoration by letting it stay that way.

1)  Your dog barks as a form of warning.  This type of bark is usually started with a low, menacing growl followed by a loud series of sharp bark.  Usually, this is heard when your dog senses that someone is approaching.  To fully understand this bark, see if you have a friend who’s got a dog that has just given birth, ask if you could visit.  Try to walk near while the dog is nursing and you will hear that distinct bark.

1. Solution: try to see what’s eating your dog.  This type of barking is the one that should not be ignored for it may signify an intruder.  But once you notice that the dog is barking at a person you know but he’s not familiar with, hold the dog by the collar and say “STOP” in a firm voice.  Don’t tug at the collar for you may injure your dog’s wind pipe.  Maybe your neighbor’s dog or cat is at your yard and it’s making your dog irritated for your dog’s territory is being invaded.  Scoot the invader away and then tell your dog to “STOP!”  The moment your dog stops barking, praise him and tell him he’s a good dog for knowing how to stop barking.

2)  Your dog is trying on alert.  This form of barking is characterized by low, staccato-like barks.  This behavior is observed whenever the door bell or telephone would ring, or when someone you know is approaching.

1. Solution: see what’s captured your dog’s interest.  If it’s the doorbell, tell your dog “STOP” and when he does, say he’s a good dog for telling you about the door bell.  The same goes for the telephone.  Now, if you still cannot order your dog to stop barking have friend over and ask her to help train your dog.  What your friend can do is ring the doorbell every now and then.  Every time your friend would ring the bell, command your dog to STOP and SIT.  Wait a couple of seconds, and praise your dog or give him a treat.  Tell your dog that one bark is enough when the doorbell rings, then repeat the process again.  The same procedure can be done with the telephone.

3)  Your dog is longing for company, or bored.  When dogs are having separation anxiety issues, they can incessantly bark and howl while you’re gone.  Dogs are pack animals.  This means that your family is not treated as an individual, but a group in which he sees himself as a leader, or the one being led.  If you are gone, as a leader he would worry about your safety.  As the one being led, your dog will feel lost when left alone. This bark is also observed when you put your dog in a kennel, crate, or leash for the first time.

1. Solution: of all the types of barking problems, this is the hardest to correct for it happens during your absence. Behavioral modification can be the only solution to this problem.  You have to train your dog to wait for you while you’re gone.  Address your dog’s separation anxiety issues by leaving the house for a couple of minutes and coming back in just before your dog starts to bark.  Whenever you leave and arrive home, don’t make a fuss.  Tell your dog firmly and as short as possible that you’ll be gone and be back after a couple of hours, then leave.  When you get back, painful as it may seem, ignore your dog for 15 minutes, or until he’s calmed down.  Rub his neck and don’t say you miss him, that you’re glad to see him.  Just rub him and say he’s a good dog for not barking too much while you’re gone.  As for the kennel, crate, and leash issue, you have to introduce him to it slowly.  Don’t just dump your dog in or tie him.  An abrupt curtail in freedom is not what every dog would like, especially if the dog grew up being free to roam around the house.

4)  Your dog is in pain. A dog in pain will give a series of yelps.  It may be because his paw or tail got stuck on something, someone threw a stone or a stick at him, or he may be having some medical condition that needs attention… or your dog may be in labor.

1. Solution: immediately see what caused your dog to yelp.  Unstuck his paw or tail, and sooth him by rubbing him and giving comforting words.  You may want to put ice on the affected part to lessen the pain.  If there is no obvious cause and your dog is yelping, not eating, has labored breathing, bring him to the vet to see if there is a medical condition is causing a problem.  If your dog is recovering from a major operation, make sure you stick to the pain medication regimen to lessen his pain.

5)  Your dog wants to play. Low, short, repetitive barks will come from your dog whenever he has the desire to play with you.  Usually, your dog will bark this way when you get his leash, favorite toy, or Frisbee.

1. Solution: Always give your dog playtime, even for just 15-30 minutes a day.  Each dog, especially a puppy, would always want to have some physical activity to release some pent up energy.  Play time can be very good for dogs, especially when your dog has separation anxiety issues.  This can prevent your dog from getting bored and keep him from distracting you and your neighbors.

If your dog is still barking non-stop you can buy either a spray bottle or a citronella dog collar.  Whenever your barks spray him with the spray bottle set on squirt mode.  Don’t use a squirt gun, the point here is to get your dog’s attention and not play with or traumatize him.

Tell him why you had to use the squirt gun and tell him that one bark should be enough.  A citronella dog collar works on the same principle.  The collar has a sensor attached that monitors the vibration in your dog’s throat. Whenever your dog barks, the vibration will set off the collar and would spray a dose of citronella.  The odor is quite strong for your dog’s sensitive nose, and most dogs do not like the scent.

Try to line your garden with citronella plants and you’ll notice that your dog will not approach the side that has citronella in it.  Most dog owners prefer a citronella dog collar to other collars that deliver an electric shock to a dog.  Just remember that if your dog has separation anxiety, giving a dog collar while you’re away will not help his condition, but only make it worse.  Address your dog’s separation anxiety first before utilizing a dog collar for behavioral modification.

It can be very hard to train a dog to stop excessive barking.  But in time, coupled with patience and practice, your dog will become a well-behaved canine that is adored by your neighbors.

One particular instance when your dog would pee uncontrollably is during an exciting event such as you arriving home, having visitors over, a sudden loud noise, or whenever you and your dog are just having a good time.  This is called excited peeing.  Here are the steps that you can do to help lessen its occurrence.

1)  Whenever you get home, do not make such a fuss when you arrive.  Greet your dog with a pleasant “hello” and then keep your interaction low-key as much as possible.  Try ignoring your dog for 15 minutes then give him your full attention.

2)  If you’re having visitors over, you can pre-warn your dog by saying that some of your friends will arrive shortly.  You can also lessen your dog’s intake of water before your friends arrive.  The keyword here is lessen, not eliminate.  Dogs need water as much as you do, so make sure that you just limit the intake and not deprive him of it.

3)  Take your dog out for a walk before your friends come over.  Encourage him to urinate while outside, and do not go in while he hasn’t.

4)  Greet your friends outside with your dog.  When your dog urinates outside, tell him he’s a good dog for he urinated outside the house.  This way, your dog will get the idea that he should be doing the deed outside, and not inside the house.

5)  If your dog is small, then by all means hold him when your friends arrive.  This way, your dog will be reassured and be calm whenever strangers are around.

Submissive peeing, on the other hand, occurs when your dog is feeling threatened or dominated.  It is also due to your dog’s belief that he must be submissive enough to gain your approval.  To lessen this problem, the following tips can be employed.

1)  Whenever you arrive home, greet your dog pleasantly but without looking at him straight in the eye.  This is a show of dominance, and your dog will react by showing submissive behavior.

2)  Wait for him to be the one to approach.  When he does so, do not pat him on the head.  Rub him behind his ears or give him a little scratch beneath his chin.  You would be in a less-dominating position and your dog will get the idea that he does not need to become submissive to gain your affection.

3)  You can also greet him this way:  when he comes near, command him to sit, and shake.  When he performs the command correctly, praise him appropriately and also tell him he’s been a good dog for not peeing.

4)  Expose your dog to a lot of children or dogs.  Tell children not to pat or touch your dog when she rolls over.  Tell them to touch your dog only when she’s standing on all fours, or sitting down calmly.  This can also be told to your friends whenever they come over.

5)  If ever your dog pees whenever he is given attention, tell him softly and calmly in a normal tone of voice that you and he are going out for a walk.  When he pees outside, tell him that he’s being good and peeing is best done outside the house and not inside.

Do take into mind that excited and submissive peeing are not problems due to improper training, or because of lack or too much attention.  If you suspect a medical condition, consult a vet.

However, whenever you observe your dog doing such an act, do not scold or punish him.   Doing so will only make the condition worse and not resolve the issue.  All he needs is proper encouragement and a boost in self-confidence to overcome this behavior.

• Your dog may need to have a bath.  How many times a week do you bathe your dog?  If your dog is itchy or hot, he would relieve himself by licking his fur or skin.   This is the normal way dogs groom themselves, and the instinct will not disappear no matter how domesticated your dog would be.

• Your dog may be irritated by an allergen in the food, or something else in the environment.  You may have fed him a food that has eggs or seafood in it that did not go well with your dog’s skin.  Fleas between your dog’s paws may also be irritating your dog, as well as leaving some itchy marks on his body.

• Your dog is anxious.  This can be seen after a major relocation, or whenever you or a favorite person leaves the house.

• If your dog is excessively licking you or other people, this is a behavioral problem that comes from different reasons:
  • Your dog has been trained during puppyhood that excessive licking is acceptable.  Your child may be playing with your dog as a puppy and can be constantly delighted with the excessive licking the puppy is showering her.  When the dog grows old, that “learned” behavior is carried on and manifested when you come home from work, or when visitors drop by.
  • It is your dog’s way of showing affection.  Dogs are not able to communicate properly, so this behavior is their way of saying that he likes you, is delighted to see you, and he wants to play with you.

To stop the dog from licking, you have to address the issue.  Ensure that your dog is given proper hygiene.  See if your dog has some flea issues you have to take care of.  If your dog is licking himself and you or a favorite person after a period of lack of contact, you may want to do some separation anxiety management.

Make sure that you don’t make a big issue about coming and going the house.  Leave the house for 5 minutes and come back again without saying anything to your dog.  This would take some time, but it will do its trick once your dog gets used to it.

You can also correct his behavior by not noticing him when he licks you.  Train him that he will still get the attention that he wants without having to resort to heavy licking.  When he finally stops licking you, ignore him for a short while and then praise him for not licking you.

Train him to do some tricks, and give him rewards and praise when doing so.  Tell him firmly “NO!” when he jumps at you starts licking you.  Do not punish him for doing so.  Punishing will only cause more behavioral problems.  Remember that dogs respond better through positive encouragement, and as a responsible pet owner, you are in charge of producing a dog that has acceptable behavior.

This condition is known as Coprophagy is a condition when a dog is somewhat fixated with eating its own or other animal’s feces.  No breed is spared from this behavior; may your dog be a mongrel or a Labrador, or a greyhound, your dog will still experience the need of eating its own poop.

Causes:

No one knows exactly what causes the condition; some say it’s a phase, some say it’s an acquired behavior.  Some specific causes could be:

• Stress and anxiety: most dogs that have been mistreated often eat their own feces.  This behavior is most seen on dogs that came from unsavory animal shelters and cruel owners.  However, if you have recently moved to a new neighborhood without helping your dog adjust, you may see some poop eating around the corner.

• Pregnancy or a dog in heat: It’s a natural instinct for animals in the wild to mask their own scent just to make sure their brood is safe.  A pregnant or a dog at heat might eat its poop in order to mask her scent in fear of being found by other wild animals that may eventually attack on her once they sense her weakness.  Mothers are often found eating the feces of their pups, and it can be due to the same reason, for from the simple need of just keeping the den clean.  Or, if you would closely observe the interaction between a mother dog and a newborn puppy, you will often notice that the puppies only poop or urinate when their abdomens and genitals are stimulated by their mom’s tongue.

• Puppy curiosity: just like human toddlers, puppies also have its own sense of adventure and wonderment.  Researchers postulate that puppies may be eating their poop just out of curiosity.  That curiosity may be due to a primitive memory of their mother eating their poop, we won’t exactly know.  Others say that the puppies instinctively eat their own poop in search for the proper nutritional requirement that they would need for them to grow.

• Improper Discipline: If during your dog’s puppyhood days you scold him excessively and punish him harshly whenever he poops, he will establish an undesirable behavior when it comes to poop.  He would be conditioned that whenever he poops he would be hurt again, so he “cleans after himself” by eating his own poop.

• Nutritional Imbalance: it has been lead to believe that dogs deficient B₁₂ or K “seek” for this nutritional requirement in feces.

Management:

Whatever the cause, you still need to help your dog get out of the nasty habit.  If you think that your dog is having some nutritional imbalance, ask your vet for what food to give to your dog.  Red meat can be the right food to give to your dog to address this problem.

You can also ask for some vitamin supplements that can help your dog stop eating poop.  Buy your dog a brand of dog food that is digested easily but leaves very little residue for poop.

You may love feeding your dog, but make sure you do not overfeed.  Too much food will just give your dog indigestion.  The resultant poop may still have some bits of whole food in it, and your dog will be quite delighted in eating his food all over again.

You can also do some behavioral modification on your dog by training him that eating poop is not a desirable course of action.  Get a good pair of disposable gloves and a plastic bag.  Go with him whenever he does the deed, and show to him that you’re cleaning up after him.

Tell him that poop is not made to be eaten while you’re placing the poop in the plastic bag and disposing it in a garbage bin.  Just make sure that the garbage bin is fully secured lest he takes it in his mind to go after it.  Aside from that, you can tug your dog’s leash while he’s smelling his own poop, and firmly tell him “NO.”

Some advocate the use of an additive that can make a dog’s poop quite unappetizing. You can use pepper powder or pepper sauce, or some commercially prepared concoction that you can use to pour over the poop to deter the dog from eating it.  You can try one of these products and see which one would do the job.

• Four Paws Potty Mouth – Coprophagia Treatment ($5.09):  This comes in a chewable tablet that is given in a dose of 1 tablet/10kg of body weight.  This is given every day in a span of 2 weeks.  It has brewer’s yeast and Cayenne that can certainly make the taste of your dog’s poop quite undesirable.  Aside from that, it contains vitamin B₁, B₂, and B₁₂, Iron and Copper; all of the important vitamins and minerals that your dog needs to help him stop eating fecal matter. Comes in a bottle of 60 tablets.

• 8-in1 Deter – Coprophagia treatment ($5.09): prides itself as 98% effective in deterring your dog from eating his own poop.  Comes in a bottle of 60 tablets.

There are a lot of commercially-available poop deterrent that can help your dog stop from poop eating.  Your dog is at high risk from contracting parasitic infections that came from the poop of other dogs and animals.  Behavioral modification can be hard, but it would only take hard work and dedication to eventually stop your dog from coprophagia.

Bear in mind that you must restrain yourself from physically punishing your dog.  Physical punishment only makes matters worse, and will not resolve the issue of poop eating.  Praising your dog whenever he follows your command of not eating his poop, as well as constantly and consistently guiding him from such an act can eventually help your dog get over poop eating.

Shoes, bags, toys and furniture are chewed to pieces.  Not only that, your dog constantly jumps on the dinner table, either begging for scraps or taking the food from your plate.  Your dog definitely needs to be disciplined.

It would be best to discipline your dog whenever you caught him in the act of doing something unpleasant.  If you see your dog stalking your favorite pair of shoes, tell him right there and then “NO.”  Not that soft, sweet, mellow tone of voice.  He will not respond to it in a way that you want him to be. A firm, louder and slightly harder than normal tone must be used for him to know that you mean business.

If it has been done, you must reprimand your dog, and you must also explain why he should have not done so.  You will say you’re treating the dog like an errant kid; well that’s precisely the idea.  A dog is just like a kid who does not know his boundaries and you must be authoritative enough to set him straight.

If your canine is into the habit of rummaging your garbage whenever you’re gone, that may mean two things: boredom and hunger.  There are several ways to address this.  You can buy a dog food dispenser that you can train your dog to access food whenever he wants it.  Or, before leaving, give him a hearty meal that can last for a whole day.

To address boredom, give him toys that he can gnaw and chew to his heart’s content.  If that still does not solve the issue, then get into the habit of taking out the trash before you leave, or buy a container that can seal your trash securely until you come home.

If you cannot afford such a container, pet stores have something that you can spray on your trash.  The spray is non toxic but with a taste that is absolutely detested by dogs.  Once your dog gets a taste of it, he will always associate garbage to that taste and will leave your garbage alone.

If your dog has a habit of jumping on the table for food you can start training him by telling all your family members (and yes, that includes you) not to encourage the behavior.  Avoid giving him table scraps whenever he’s near the table.

If it’s time for dinner, give him his plate outside.  Close the kitchen door when you’re preparing dinner and say clearly to your dog that he’s not allowed inside the kitchen and he should behave.

You can produce a learned behavior by placing a delicious piece of morsel at the center of the table and lining the table with a loose cloth filled with a lot of lightweight, safe, yet noisy items.  When your dog leaps on the table, he can cause the cloth to slide off along with the noisy items.

This can startle the dog and he would definitely not want to experience that event again.  If you don’t have a table-lining, have the family hide behind the kitchen door with pots and lids as well as ladles.

When he pounces, create such a racket that would surprise your dog.  Just make sure you won’t be seen.  And do not go after your dog to console him.  That would totally eradicate the whole point of the procedure and your dog will do it again.

However, this type of situation is only fit for confident and self-assured dogs.  If your dog is not behaving the way a normal dog should (i.e. being very submissive or very aggressive), ask a dog trainer what controlled situation would be appropriate to produce a learned behavior.

Whenever you correct your dog’s behavior, you must not use physical violence.  Beating or hitting a dog can turn your loving, trusting, and loyal companion into a dog that is mistrustful, frightened, and at worse, aggressive.

Your confident and exuberant canine will become a dog that does not interact, has low self-esteem, and avoid any human contact in any way it can.  And that means biting and attacking the very person that he used to love and adore.  Whenever you physically hurt a dog, he will be conditioned into thinking that a raised hand and a raised voice would equate to getting hurt.

In turn, whenever your children or anybody else walk towards him and play, an innocent gesture will be perceived as a threat.  This would instinctively command your dog to protect himself and act out aggressively to the nearest target.

Consistency and patience is the key to properly disciplining your dog.  And just like children, dogs respond more to positive reinforcements like rewards or praise whenever they are doing something right.

If your dog responded appropriately to your command, keep it in mind to lavish him with praise and give him a doggie treat.  Doing the same thing over and over again whenever your dog misbehaves will eventually train your dog to behave and cease wreaking havoc on your home.

This is a common problem for dog owners whenever they leave for work.  Sometimes the owner gets so upset over the dog that it leads to giving the dog away either to other friends and family or to a dog shelter.

What exactly is separation anxiety for a dog?

Every dog article that you would read will always tell you constantly that a dog is a pack animal.  A dog with a high sense of dominancy will think of you as a part of the pack that he needs to protect.  The moment you’re gone from his sight, he would think all sorts of things with regards to your safety and whereabouts.

Eventually, your dog will be so overwhelmed with anxiety; he would eventually explode and unleash his pent-up emotions on furniture, doors, windows, and the garden.  And you will find that the most destroyed items in your home would be the ones you always use and come in contact with.  Your favorite shoes, favorite socks, favorite chair, all will be in shambles by the time you get home.  You may even find some dog poop in your shoes or anywhere in the house, and be horrified to know he has relieved himself on your expensive carpet.

What causes it?

Separation anxiety can be caused by a lot of things.  One could be genetic predisposition.  If your dog came from a breed that is known to exhibit separation anxiety, chances are your dog will also be doing the same thing.  A traumatic event that has happened while you’re away like a severe thunderstorm, earthquake, or robbery, can cause your dog to be fearful of your absence.

It can also be caused by any change from the normal daily routines that your dog has grown accustomed to.  Your dog may have grown used to your constant presence because you were on a vacation, then suddenly have to cope with you leaving for work when your vacation has ended. Or it can be an addition of a new family member such as a baby who takes away the attention from him.

And even though your dog does not usually exhibit separation anxiety, he will manifest the condition if he has been left to the vet or kennel for a long time.  A rescued dog from an animal shelter is also the biggest candidate for separation anxiety.

How will I know if my dog has separation anxiety?

These behaviors are commonly noted on dogs that suffer from the said condition.

1)  Your dog engages in wild behavior before you leave and after you come home from work.  This would include whining, clawing on doors, leaping at you to prevent you from leaving, biting your trousers and dragging you back to your house.  Some dogs tense up and even shake when they see that you’re preparing to leave.  When you get home, you will observe exuberant behavior such as leaping or pouncing, excessive barking, and licking.

2)  Your neighbors will say that they can hear your dog whining and howling nonstop the moment you’re gone.

3)  You will notice that your dog will also cry, refuse to eat, or drool excessively as well as refuse to eat.

4)  Severe cases can manifest vomiting and or diarrhea; escaping through windows or screen doors regardless of any injuries your dog may suffer from.  Self-mutilation may be seen in bleeding paws and other body parts such as the mouth.

How will I know if it’s really separation anxiety?

Some asks if those manifestations are indeed signs of separation anxiety and not some deeper problems that their dog is suffering from.  For one thing, check to see if your dog is healthy.

See if you’re giving him the right balance of protein in his diet.  The usual and distinctive characteristic that distinguishes separation anxiety from behavioral disorders is simply the manifestation of inappropriate behavior while you’re gone.

Is there a way to cure or help my dog?

Some pet owners scold and punish their dogs whenever they go home and find destroyed items in their home.  This is not the appropriate approach, for this would only result in a more depressed dog.  He is already upset that you left him, and scolding or physically harming your dog due to bad behavior that is mostly due to missing you will only make him more upset and disturbed.

This will only aggravate your dog’s condition, and can even result in a dangerous or permanent conduct disorder.  You have to help your dog get used to your absence by slowly and patiently desensitizing him of your routine.

1)  During your off days, stay with your dog in the living room.  While you two are together, leave through the front door and stay out for just about 20 seconds or so.  You have to get back before he starts to whine and not when he does so.

The principle of this exercise is have him accept your absence without suffering from distress. Do this every once in a while in varying intervals and duration.  It would be best to do this straight for 2 or 3 days.  Gradually increase your “absence” by 30 seconds, 1 minute, 3 minutes, 5, until you get to 10.  Eventually, the next day you will be able to stay away for a maximum of 30 minutes or so.

2)  Take notice of your ritual before you leave.  Do your ritual even though you’re not leaving.

• Get your car keys while you’re within sight of your dog and let it create a sound by playing with it.  Carry it around for several minutes then return it back to the key holder.

• It may be uncomfortable, but you may have to sit in front of the TV wearing your coat or blazer.  Eventually, he will get used to the coat and not associate it with your impeding departure.

3)  If you’re leaving by the front door, try leaving through the back door or kitchen door if you have.  That very door that you always access to leave the house is already associated with hours of loneliness.  Every single time you go near that door, your dog knows you’re leaving.  Remove that association so the next time you leave through that door, he would not stop you from leaving.

4)  If you can stand some dog smell in your homely clothes, leave a couple of shirts behind and let him play with it while you’re gone.  At least his attention will be fixed on your clothes and not on your furniture or your favorite pair of shoes.

5)  Before you leave, engage your dog in a variety of physical activities.  Jog with your dog in the morning around the neighborhood.  This activity will enable your dog to use any pent-up energy that he may use against your furniture the moment you leave for the office.  Give him ample food and drink that has enough nutrients to sustain him for the day but not necessarily stimulate him.

6)  It is important to tell your dog that you are leaving and for how long you will be away.  This helps you prepare your dog and yourself for what is going to happen the moment you do.  Make leaving boring and swift.  Do not look back when your dog whines or howls or scratch at the door or windows.   When you get home, ignore his exuberant behavior.

You may miss him as well and be delighted over his display of affection, but remember that you are helping your dog to be self-reliant.  Ignore him for 5-10 minutes and only give him the attention that he needs when he’s calm.  Keep it in mind to praise him when you notice that he has calmed himself and tell him that you prefer his behavior that way.

7)  You can buy a crate so that your dog will have its own den to comfort himself while you’re gone, but some say it does not cure your dog of separation anxiety.  A new companion may also be an option, but a new dog will not always be the right answer especially if you have a breed that has problems with separation anxiety.

8)  You may use medications that your vet prescribes, but that should be the very, very, very last option for you to consider.  For these medications to take effect, you must stick to its regimen every day and never skip a dose.  If you forgot to give the prescribed dose, give it the moment you remember.  If you discontinued the medication abruptly, or have forgotten or neglected to give the dose for a few days, it may cause an ever more uncontrollable behavior.

Take into account that helping your dog recover from separation anxiety is a long, tedious, and time-consuming process.  Never stray from your behavioral modification regimen and always remember to praise your dog whenever he is able to stand being alone or being without your presence.

That is because there seems to be stages within stages. I believe it will all make sense after you have completed the document.

BIRTH – ABOUT 12-14 DAYS

The gestation period of dogs is approximately 60 days. When the puppies arrive their eyes and ears are sealed shut. With no sight or hearing their strongest sense is that of touch.

The newborn puppies have to be kept warm – they will stay close to their mother and littermates. Their nervous system is not fully developed.

ABOUT 2 WEEKS

The eyes open but the puppies cannot see well – may be sensitive to bright lights.

BETWEEN 13 – 14 AND 20 DAYS

The puppies are beginning to hear and respond to taste and smell. Puppies are crawling and even walking with a wobbly gait. Exploration of surroundings is beginning. The puppies are becoming increasing alert.

3 – 5 WEEKS

The puppies begin learning dog-like behaviors and body posturing. They will begin biting, barking, and even chasing. The puppies begin to respond to people as there is a rapid sensory development.

The submissive posture may be learned as the puppies are disciplined by their mother. The puppies are accepting the mother as pack leader and they are learning basic dog manners.

Pack hierarchy is developed through play. The puppies enjoy wrestling with littermates.

ABOUT 7 WEEKS

The puppies should be completely weaned by this time. This is a rapid learning period. Socialization is essential during this stage and the puppies should be handled daily. Socialization includes people and littermates/other dogs.

8 – 12 WEEKS

It is during this time that most puppies move to their new and permanent home. Any traumatic experience at this time can affect the dog for the rest of his/her life.

All training sessions should be short and they should be set up to allow the puppy to succeed. A physical or psychological trauma or upset may result in the puppy developing an avoidance response.

An important issue is that of having a puppy-proof environment before the puppy comes home. Keep in mind the low level that your puppy will see the world from. Most homes have some dangerous items within the reach of a small puppy.

Things to consider include electrical cords and even in some cases, drapery cords. If there are children in the home there may be small toys in the floor. Not only can a puppy destroy some toys they may be harmed by ingesting or choking on the items.

Many plants are poisonous – it is wise to move any plant you are not sure of to a place the puppy cannot access. Household cleaners can be fatal to your puppy – always be sure they are out of reach. The same is true of medications. Just as with a baby, your puppy’s safety may be enhanced via the use of baby gates – and you will rest easier!

Preparation for your new puppy should also include gathering needed accessories. A dog crate/kennel will be useful for housebreaking and traveling. Additionally, the crate can be your puppy’s home within your home. Dogs in the wild use dens as homes. Believe it or not your little pet will enjoy having a den of his/her own.

You will need two bowls, one for food and one for water. Insure that the bowls are size appropriate. You may find that you need to buy a larger size as your baby grows.

When it comes to food you should at least start with whatever food your puppy was being fed before you brought him/her home. If you decide to change the food be sure to do so slowly. Begin by mixing about ¼ new food to ¾ of the older food. Feed that mixture for about 4 – 7 days before adding even more of the new food. Once again, feed the new mixture for a period of time before making the complete switch.

Having a pre-arranged veterinarian appointment is a good idea. In fact, the sooner you can get a well-puppy check up the better.

You may also want to enroll your puppy in some training/obedience classes. Checking out the schools, trainers and class options before bringing your puppy home can be an advantage.

Joining memberships or simply purchasing books about dogs can mean the difference between a wonderful relationship with your new pet or you looking for a new home for a dog that doesn’t seem to fit!

Every dog needs toys. Be sure that you buy size appropriate toys. As time goes on you will discover what type of toy your special dog prefers. Some dogs prefer anything they can fetch and others enjoy toys that squeak.

A leash will be very useful. While training your puppy a 6 foot long nylon leash and a harness will be helpful. Speaking of training – don’t forget the treats!

3 – 7 MONTHS

During this time your little fur ball is likely to demonstrate extreme bursts of energy followed with nap time. He/she will probably enjoy rough play. It is during this time that puppies lose their milk teeth – therefore dental care should be started.

To assist with this task be sure to provide hard chew treats and toys that your puppy enjoys chewing on. You may need to practice the trading technique – as in you trade your appropriate chew toy for whatever inappropriate item your puppy finds.

4 – 8 MONTHS

This can be a challenging period – especially for unprepared owners. It is important to understand that your pet is going through physical as well as psychological changes. Try to be patient and understanding – even when your Fur-baby decides to test his/her limits. Be in control and assert your dominance but never resort to physical discipline.

8 – 18 MONTHS

The high energy continues and sometimes even increases. This period is considered adolescence and just like humans, dogs may become rebellious in some ways. Your puppy may become territorial and aggressive and/or protective.

Once again, the owner needs to practice patience, and persistence. The males will begin lifting a leg and the female will experience her first heat.

10 – 16 MONTHS

Your little dog needs structure and leadership. This helps the dog feel secure and safe. By establishing yourself as the pack leader and demonstrating that you are in control your puppy will be much more comfortable. After all, the real responsibilities are on the pack leader not the young dog. You are the one that is responsible for food and shelter – the basic comforts of life.

During this stage it is important to keep in mind that your dog needs to know that you are in control. Don’t fall into a downward spiral of an escalation of acceptance of those little behaviors that may become increasingly annoying as your puppy ages.

18 – 36 MONTHS

By now your puppy will have become a young adult. As he/she settles into adulthood a routine should be established. There should be a schedule that is routine. This includes things like eating time, rest time, play time and even bed time.

1 – 4 YEARS

Your little dog is sexually mature and is out of the rowdiness of adolescence. He/she is perfectly content to be your companion.

7 YEARS & BEYOND

Your dog is now moving into the senior years. He/she will be laid back and calm. A day spent sleeping beside you is appreciated as much as a day outdoors.

But finding effective ways of dealing with these behaviors is often a problem for many dog owners. We have to walk a fine line between being firm but in showing kindness at the same time when correcting our pets. Even old dogs can learn new tricks – but a lot depends on how we approach this teaching.

There are some things that we need to always be aware of and the most important is that our dogs have feelings. They have developed a love and trust in us. Even when correcting or training them we need to encourage this relationship that we have established.

The following tips can help in working with a dog that has a frustrating, annoying, or dangerous habit or behavior. These suggestions will encourage good behavior while maintaining the bond that you enjoy with your pet.

1. Consistency is the key when doing any type of training. You may be tempted to let them slide every once in awhile, but this will only serve to hamper your efforts. Be consistent with praise as well as with corrections and your dog will begin to understand what behavior you want and expect – the fact is that our dogs want nothing more than to please us.

2. Positive Reinforcement is Vital because it allows the dog to associate good behavior with a reward that he enjoys. Kindness pays off in almost every case. In brief, positive reinforcement means that you reward a dog when they do the right thing, and withhold the reward when they do not. Even the most stubborn dog will begin to respond to these training techniques, when they are applied consistently.

3. Use a dog crate sparingly. I always insist that dog crates not be over used. In reality, I would not use one myself but I know that many dog trainers suggest crates are one of the easiest ways to put an end to destructive behavior. A crate provides clear cut boundaries. Crating them while you are gone, or when you need some space is an effective and humane training aid. You may need to introduce them to the crate slowly, and allow them time to get used to being confined.

Remember, be consistent and reward them for good behavior in their crate. A crate should not be used as a punishment device, but rather as a safe place for them to go and relax. If you use a crate you should insure that it is the appropriate size for your pet and you should make it comfortable.

4. An additional cautionary note for you and especially your immediate family members. Once the dog behavioral problems are addressed, and the corrective training has started, it is imperative everyone involved with the dog use the same training techniques. Everyone must be consistent in the handling of the dog. If not your poor dog will become very confused and may display even more inappropriate behavior than before.

These easy tips can go a long way toward changing bad behavior to good. Both you and your pet will benefit from effective training. A well behaved pet is better liked by everyone and he is welcomed in more places. This makes it easier to take him with you for fun and travel. The bond between you will be stronger because you will enjoy his companionship even more than before.

Before training your pet you should try to understand his behavioral psychology as that will assist you in working with your pet. Training your dog can completely change the dog’s behavior and you can certainly change his aggressive nature and make him into a subdued and well mannered pet.

Your loving and friendly attitude can help to shape your dog regardless of the type and age of the dog. Dogs love the idea of being trained by their owners because they desire nothing more than to spend time with their best friend. This time they spend working together allows the dog time to learn and have fun as the bond between pet and owner grows.

The dog always turns to his loving owner for directions and also after completing his task as he hopes for and expects an incentive and treat. You can give him a loving hug or offer him his favorite food, or even give some kind praise.

The incentive and rewards you offer keeps your dog motivated to obey your commands and perform the tricks you trained him for. To grasp your dog’s attention you need to train him at a secluded spot in your home so that you can easily train him to be obedient. The dog’s senses are very sensitive and he can easily be distracted with the slightest sound and smell so training him in quiet spot is usually a good idea – at least at first.

People who understand the behavior and psychology patterns of their dogs succeed in training and teaching their dogs in a better way. The earlier training is started the better. Even small puppies can start picking up habits such as being house-trained, sit, no, etc. If you wait until later the training is more difficult because the dog will not only need to learn whatever it is that you are trying to teach him, but it is also likely that he will need to break old habits in the process.

Remember that dogs are very sensitive and you can simply use sign language as a method of teaching or clicker training. Patience, love, and kindness will result in your dog learning quickly and the bond between you will grow stronger than ever.

Whether it is our ankles or the ankles of other pets in the home, the new puppy is likely to ‘attack’ each time we walk across the floor. Although this activity is cute and even adorable at first, it can become quite annoying in a short period of time. Not only is it irritating but it can also become a costly and hurtful experience.

Sometimes those sharp little teeth and claws land just right, grabbing and tearing through not only our pants, socks, and/or hose, but also our skin. Ouch! This is obviously a problem that new puppy owners frequently complain of.

The good news is that there are some simple solutions to the problem. You clearly want your puppy to understand that you are the one in charge in your home. But you don’t want your puppy to be frightened of you and you understand that he is only playing. The perfect way out is to provide a distraction for your little dog.

Each time that he does his ‘attack’ thing you should be prepared with a distraction of some sort. Many people use noise makers for this. The ‘noise maker’ should be something that is unusual for your home. It could be a clapping of your hands, snapping of your fingers, shaking of a jar of pennies, etc. The point is that the noise needs to get the pup’s attention.

The noise has to be out of the ordinary to do that. But some puppies do not respond to strange noises. They continue with the attack as if nothing else is going on. In that case you could try offering a favorite toy. You will need to place the toy near the puppy and make a real effort to get his attention.

Depending on how much your puppy likes playing toys, this tactic may be effective. The last option is really not a favorite because it can send the wrong message to your puppy. If all else fails you can use a treat to distract your puppy. The bad thing is your pup could learn to associate this misbehavior with a positive reward.

On the up side of things, puppies do grow out of this stage. As with everything else, time will take care of the problem, if your patience last that long!

If you closely watch your dog you will notice that his eyes, ears, body, and tail are in an almost continuous, though subtle movement. This is his way of communicating his emotional feelings.

Studies are confirming the fact that animals use a very inconspicuous and refined system of communication. The good news is that with a little effort we can learn to understand our domesticated dogs.

In studies conducted by Jane Goodall and Dr. Michael W. Fox, recognized authority on canine body language, confirmed that wild dogs of Africa and wolves communicated a wide range of attitudes to each other, including affection, dominance, submission, interest, disgust, joy, disappointment, and fear. These emotions were communicated using the slightest body movements.

Although our dogs have lost some sensitivity to the language that would be used if they were living in the wild, they still use much of this inherited form of communication. Learning to read your dog’s body language will require a keen eye and close observation over what is happening at the time that your dog is displaying any given movement.

There are some basic things you can look for but like everything else, not every dog follows the same pattern as the others. Here are a few typical guidelines to get you started. Dogs use their tails to signal that they are happy or afraid. If their tail is wagging they are happy. If it is tucked down they are showing fear and submission.

When their tail is proudly held high they are feeling good about themselves. Ears are also very telling when it comes to signaling emotions. Dogs sometimes perk their ears in an adorable quizzical fashion as if to ask a question. They may also tilt their head to the side when puzzled. The ears may be held in a backward direction against the head when the dog is angry.

As you become increasingly skilled at reading your dog’s emotional language or identifying his moods, your bond with him will deepen and grow even stronger. Many professionals that have lots of experience in working with dogs have developed the ability to read canine language very well. This is true of dog behaviorists, dog trainers, veterinarians, groomers, breeders, and even life-long dog owners.

It seems that dogs are able to recognize and appreciate when you correctly read their emotional language. Perhaps this is why dogs seem to automatically like certain individuals. Maybe the dog immediately recognizes when a person understands him.

It is up to you to teach your puppy what he may and may not chew on. First, be sure that a wide assortment of toys to chew on are available to him. Consult your veterinarian about dental issues if your puppy is over six months.

Try freezing a wet washcloth and allow your puppy to chew on it. He may find the coolness soothing and choose to chew for sometime. Ice cubes are acceptable alternative to provide your puppy with. These solutions will help cool and soothe your puppy's gum lines as well.

It is a natural instinct for puppies to try and want to chew. Much like young children, they are prone to putting everything and anything in their mouths to learn about the object. Be sure to remove or keep all expensive or wanted items from the puppy's reach, and provide him with a nylon bone or some other toy instead. Remember to praise your puppy for good behaviors.

A puppy's chewing problem can be helped by providing him with nylon bones instead. However, you will need to use these and only these specific types of bones from the beginning; otherwise, if you give them any other type, they are liable to reject the nylon. Nylon bones appear similar to a rope cord and aid in keeping your puppy's teeth clean.

Be very cautious with pork or chicken bones. These types are prone to splintering, and if ingested may cause digestive problems. Make certain all the bones you give your puppy are big enough to prevent any swallowing.

Hooves, pig's feet, and all other half-digested treats should not be given to your puppy as they typically are not good for them. Also, any rawhides your butcher may give can cause diarrhea, so it is best to steer clear of these as well.

Should you find your puppy chewing on anything he is not supposed to, take the item, move it to another area, and bring him one of his toys to chew on instead. When he begins to chew on his toy, give him plenty of praise and a small treat. This will help him learn what is acceptable, what makes you happy, and what is not okay.

This problem is called separation anxiety, and there are many effective ways to assist your puppy in coping with having to be away from you for any length of time.

Signs That Your Puppy May Have Separation Anxiety

Signs that your puppy may have separation anxiety are chewing, barking, defecating, salivating more than usual, digging, urinating, and scratching. If your puppy is digging, chewing, or scratching, then they are attempting to "escape." If they are defecating, barking, urinating, or salivating more than usual, then they are very anxious and scared.

What Causes The Anxiety Your Puppy Has When You Are Absent?

Separation anxiety can be caused by your puppy's genetics, his lack of socialization, lack of confidence, lack of training, if his former own abused him, being confined too much, or being too close to his current owner. It is very clear that most of the responsibility lies with the owner.

How to Care For Separation Anxiety

Certain things can be done to keep separation anxiety from happening. When your puppy is placed in the crate, do not drag out your good-bye. Just turn around and keep walking. It might be helpful to not pay attention to your puppy for about five minutes before you will be leaving. If you point out that you are leaving, your puppy will be concerned about why you suddenly stopped showing him love.

Attempt to turn the negative emotions your puppy experiences to positive emotions. When the weekend rolls around, get ready for work, grab the keys to your car, and go outside for a couple of minutes, then come back in and reward your puppy with a treat. This will allow your puppy to think of your preparing for work as a good thing instead of a bad thing.

When you go to work, leave the t.v. or the radio on so that your puppy can hear the noise. It is better to leave it on a station that does a lot of talking, rather than just playing music, because hearing the voices will give him comfort. You might even consider taping your voice.

When you get home from work and you let your puppy out of the crate, do not show any emotion. This will tell him that being out of the crate is a lot better than being in it. Take him outside to use the bathroom at once.

Over time, the anxiety that your puppy has over your absence should get better. If the situation does not improve, or if your puppy becomes aggressive when you let him out of his crate, contact a trainer or your vet to get more help.